SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

Perhaps the saddest thing about the story was how completely

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The babies who made progress also did not retain the ability

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異種格闘技戦開催中!

こちらが最大セットです

こちらが最大セットです


本格的に波が小さい。
もうかれこれ1週間になるだろうか。
この間、最大でハラくらいの波しかきていない。
しかもリーフポイントはほぼ全滅。
唯一サイズのあるチャングーは激混みという状態らしい。
というわけでここのところ毎日のようにパドマビーチに通い詰めている。
サイズこそ小さいが、なんとかサーフィンは可能なコンディション。
小さいながら波の形は悪くないのだ。
しかもビギナーサーファー以外はほとんど海に入っていない。
このような小波コンディションではロコサーファーたちも海には入ってこないのだ。 続きを読む…

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I don’t know how you don’t cry

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One step at a time, can I simply be present? Instead of

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横乗り物語 その1 〜サーファー同士(?)の船上での出会い〜

今から約20年前の初夏。
僕は一人、竹芝桟橋から地球一周の船旅をすべく大型旅客船に乗り込んでいた。
船内はフカフカの絨毯が敷き詰められていた。
なかなかの高級客船だった。
20歳そこそこの僕にとっては相当に不釣り合いな高級客船だったが、僕に割り当てられた船室はもっとも値段の安い部屋で、船底の海面スレスレに位置していた重油の臭が充満する部屋だった。

初日、船室にて ~有本圭~

初日、船室にて ~有本圭~


ひとしきり船内を散策し、デッキに出てみた。
船の下を見下ろすと多くの見送り客の姿があった。
乗船したときにタラップで配られたカラーの紙テープの意味がようやく理解できた。
乗客から色とりどりの紙テープが見送り客に向かって投げられる。
自分の見送る相手の紙テープを拾い、大切そうに片方を握っている。
船旅の別れの惜しみ方をこのとき初めて知ったのだった。
なかなかお洒落なことをする人たちだ。
僕を見送ってくれた友人たちは「じゃあな!」とさっさと帰ってしまっていたが、一応周りに従って下にむかって紙テープを投げてみた。
当然、見ず知らずの僕の紙テープの端を拾ってくれる優しい見送り客はおらず、僕の紙テープはまったく手応えのない釣り糸のように虚しく垂れ下がっていた。

『ボーッ、ボーッ』という汽笛を合図にゆっくりと重い船体を動かす。
大切そうにつながれていた紙テープは無情にもちぎれ、しばしの別れを惜しむ悲鳴のような声があちこちで響いた。
たかだか3ヶ月の別れがそんなに悲しいものなのだろうか、とやや冷めた思いを抱きながら旅は始まった。
21歳の僕にとって、地球一周船の旅が今後の人生に多大な影響を与えるとは思ってもみなかったのだ。(詳しくはこちら
>> 次のページ >> 彼との出会いが待っていた!

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避暑地バリ

関東では梅雨も明けたようでいよいよ一年でもっとも楽しい夏が始まったようだ。
ここバリ島は基本的には一年中夏なのだが、乾期である今の時期は少々涼しい。
とはいえ、当然Tシャツ海パンで一日中過ごせるのだが、海上がりなどに油断していると寒くなったりする。
乾期は風が涼しいのだ。
常夏とはいえ、南半球に位置するバリ島にとってはこの時期が一応『冬』ということになる。
というわけで、猛烈に暑い日本の夏の時期に避暑地としてのバリ島もアリのような気がするのだ。

セットの波はそこそこ遊べた

セットの波はそこそこ遊べた


さて、本日のバリの波はここ数日間と変わらず小波だ。
セットでせいぜいコシ〜ハラといったところ。
なんとかショートボードでもトレーニングできるコンディションにはなったが、まだまだ小さい。 続きを読む…

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子どもにサーフィンをさせる派?

「たまには家族の時間作ってよ〜」とド天然嫁が口を尖らせた。
いやいやいや、毎日家族の時間を作っているつもりですけど、と反論してみたものの「一日中家族と過ごすことってほとんどないじゃん」と逆ギレされて本日晴れて家族でレギアンビーチに行くことになった。

ベビ子と海遊び〜

ベビ子と海遊び〜


ここ数日、バリにしては本当に珍しく小波が続いている。
本日もセットでモモ〜コシといったところ。
ショートボードならサーフ不可、ロングでなんとか遊べるといった程度の波だった。
でもこういう日に家族サービスで海に来れたのはラッキーだったといえよう。
なぜなら、いい波を目の前にして家族とビーチで遊ぶのはそこそこフラストレーションが溜まってくるものだが、本日に限っては心から家族との時間を楽しむことができたからだ。
特に愛娘ベビ子を海で遊ばせるには最高のコンディションだった。
浮き輪を付けつつ波と戯れる。
彼女にとってはカタ〜オーバーヘットの波のサイズなのでそこそこ恐怖だったらしいのだが、それでも許容範囲は超えていない感じだった。
満二歳になったばかりのベビ子にとっては『海=楽しい』という印象を残すことが大切で、決して怖い体験はさせたくないと思っている。
怖くなってしまうと海に近寄らなくなってしまう。
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