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心もドンヨリ?

滞在中、とことん雨にみまわれた

滞在中、とことん雨にみまわれた


まさに秋の長雨。
ボクが帰国してからというもの、ボクの帰国を歓迎しないかのように連日シトシトと雨が続いている。
秋晴れをみせておくれーと嘆いてみたところでそんな思いは天には届かない。
いやー、きっと残暑が厳しいだろうよ、と覚悟して帰国したわけであるが、まったくの期待はずれとなってしまった。

天気と心はある部分で連動しているような気がする。
こうも雨天曇天が続いてしまうとどうもワケもなく心も曇りがちとなってしまう。
もともとメンタルがひ弱なボクはこうした外的要因に激しく左右されてしまうのだ。 続きを読む…

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Medicine and health sciences text books:terrors of the table:

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なすがままに

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仕事もサーフィンも!


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32歳、今から11年前に設立した会社があった。
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flow free。
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That way i don’t end up so involved in one thing that don’t

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サーフィンが好調になる秘訣

気の合う仲間たちと

気の合う仲間たちと


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しかしサーフィンがあまりに身近になりすぎて翌日のサーフィンを考えてワクワクして眠れないなんてことはなくなってしまった。
悲しいかなこれが現実というものだ。
新鮮な気持ちとはそう長くは続かないものなのだ。

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外的要因より内的要因によるところが大きい。
サーフィンを始めて25年が経ち、ようやくそんな当たり前のことに気がついたのだ。

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楽しい気分でサーフィンをする近道は自分が大好きなメンバーと一緒に海に入ることである。
気の置ける仲間たちと時間を共にするだけで心が軽やかになる。
友だちと一緒であればそれだけで気分はいい。
気分がよければサーフィンの調子もよくなる。
サーフィンの調子がよければ気分がよくなる。
そんなふうにして心からサーフィンを楽しむことができるのだ。
>> 次のページ >> サーフィンを好調に保つには?

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されどビーチブレイク

ビーチと侮るなかれ!

ビーチと侮るなかれ!


バリ島に移ってきてからというもの、リーフブレイクでサーフィンする機会が圧倒的に多かった。
そりゃあせっかくバリにいるんだからリーフでサーフィンするしかないでしょーといったマインドだったのだ。
しかし最近、そのマインドに変化が起きている。

ここのところ近所のビーチブレイクでのクイックサーフィンが習慣化している。
もともとボクがサーフィンを覚えたところは湘南のビーチブレイクだ。
やっぱりナンダカンダといってもボクはビーチでサーフィンするのが好きなのである。
リーフと違って波がランダムにブレイクするところが面白い。
波を見る目も養われる。
トリッキーな波の動きに合わせることでサーフィンの技術も向上する。
それにやっぱりビーチはリラックスしてサーフィンが楽しめるのだ。 続きを読む…

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ベビ子物語vol52 〜 立ったぞ〜〜! 〜

さあ、サーフィンだあ!

さあ、サーフィンだあ!


先日、ボディボードで初めて波に乗ったベビ子の様子を書かいた。(そのときの記事はこちら
大げさにいってしまうと、彼女のサーフィン人生幕開けの瞬間に立ち会うことができた、ということになる。
そしてこれは大げさでもなんでもなく、サーフィンを愛する親として、純度100%混じり気なしの幸せを感じた瞬間でもあったのだ。

かといって畳み掛けるように娘にサーフィンをさせるつもりはない。
あくまでも自発的に「サーフィンやりたいっ!」となったときに限ってサーフィンをさせる、という方針だ。
無理矢理やらせてサーフィンが嫌いになってしまっては元も子もない。
なので次のサーフィンも4歳のベビ子自身の意志に委ねられているというわけなのだ。

しかしそんな呑気なボクの姿勢とは裏腹に2回目の機会は案外すぐにやってきた。
用事のない休日の午前中は家族でビーチを散歩しつつ適当なカフェで海を眺めながら朝食を取ることが多い。
この日もそんな流れだった。
ビーチをプラプラ歩きながら貝殻を拾ってみたり、カニを捕まえたり。
しかしその全行程は3時間にも及び、40を超えたおじさん体にはジワジワと疲れが染み渡ってくる。
つくづくトシを感じてしまったのだった。

家に戻りソファーでクタっと横たわっているとまだまだ遊び足りないベビ子がボクの体をめがけて飛び込んできた。
「オトー、海で遊びぼーよ」
「ええ、今海から帰ってきたんだよ。ちょっとオトー疲れたから休憩してからでもいい?」
「えー、だってー、サーフィンしたいんだもん」
「えっ?」
ボクは横たわっていた重たい体を腹筋をフルに使ってサッと起こした。
「え? サーフィンしたいの?」
「うんっ!」
「よーしっ、やるかっ!」
疲れていたはずのボクはベビ子のその一言で一気に元気を取り戻し、素早くテキパキした動きで海にいく準備に取り掛かった。
結局体の疲れなんてものは心持ちひとつでどうにでもなってしまうものなのだろう。
>> 次のページ >> Ride on the wave!!

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Grafton finished second with 123 points

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