SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

サーフィンが好調になる秘訣

気の合う仲間たちと

気の合う仲間たちと


無条件にいつでもサーフィンが楽しかったころが懐かしい。
いや、今でももちろんサーフィンは楽しい。
しかしサーフィンがあまりに身近になりすぎて翌日のサーフィンを考えてワクワクして眠れないなんてことはなくなってしまった。
悲しいかなこれが現実というものだ。
新鮮な気持ちとはそう長くは続かないものなのだ。

サーフィンを心から楽しめるかどうかという問題は自分自身の心の持ちようにかかっている、最近ではそんなふうに考えられるようになった。
波がどうとか人がどうとか風だの雨だの寒いだ暑いだなんてことはあまり関係がない。
自分が海でどんなマインドで過ごすかによってまったく違った結果が待っている。
外的要因より内的要因によるところが大きい。
サーフィンを始めて25年が経ち、ようやくそんな当たり前のことに気がついたのだ。

わかってしまった以上は実践していくしかない。
サーフィンを心から楽しむには自分の気分が最高でなくてはならない。
そう、サーフィンの楽しさに虜になったあの頃のように。

楽しい気分でサーフィンをする近道は自分が大好きなメンバーと一緒に海に入ることである。
気の置ける仲間たちと時間を共にするだけで心が軽やかになる。
友だちと一緒であればそれだけで気分はいい。
気分がよければサーフィンの調子もよくなる。
サーフィンの調子がよければ気分がよくなる。
そんなふうにして心からサーフィンを楽しむことができるのだ。
>> 次のページ >> サーフィンを好調に保つには?

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されどビーチブレイク

ビーチと侮るなかれ!

ビーチと侮るなかれ!


バリ島に移ってきてからというもの、リーフブレイクでサーフィンする機会が圧倒的に多かった。
そりゃあせっかくバリにいるんだからリーフでサーフィンするしかないでしょーといったマインドだったのだ。
しかし最近、そのマインドに変化が起きている。

ここのところ近所のビーチブレイクでのクイックサーフィンが習慣化している。
もともとボクがサーフィンを覚えたところは湘南のビーチブレイクだ。
やっぱりナンダカンダといってもボクはビーチでサーフィンするのが好きなのである。
リーフと違って波がランダムにブレイクするところが面白い。
波を見る目も養われる。
トリッキーな波の動きに合わせることでサーフィンの技術も向上する。
それにやっぱりビーチはリラックスしてサーフィンが楽しめるのだ。 続きを読む…

タグ: ,

ベビ子物語vol52 〜 立ったぞ〜〜! 〜

さあ、サーフィンだあ!

さあ、サーフィンだあ!


先日、ボディボードで初めて波に乗ったベビ子の様子を書かいた。(そのときの記事はこちら
大げさにいってしまうと、彼女のサーフィン人生幕開けの瞬間に立ち会うことができた、ということになる。
そしてこれは大げさでもなんでもなく、サーフィンを愛する親として、純度100%混じり気なしの幸せを感じた瞬間でもあったのだ。

かといって畳み掛けるように娘にサーフィンをさせるつもりはない。
あくまでも自発的に「サーフィンやりたいっ!」となったときに限ってサーフィンをさせる、という方針だ。
無理矢理やらせてサーフィンが嫌いになってしまっては元も子もない。
なので次のサーフィンも4歳のベビ子自身の意志に委ねられているというわけなのだ。

しかしそんな呑気なボクの姿勢とは裏腹に2回目の機会は案外すぐにやってきた。
用事のない休日の午前中は家族でビーチを散歩しつつ適当なカフェで海を眺めながら朝食を取ることが多い。
この日もそんな流れだった。
ビーチをプラプラ歩きながら貝殻を拾ってみたり、カニを捕まえたり。
しかしその全行程は3時間にも及び、40を超えたおじさん体にはジワジワと疲れが染み渡ってくる。
つくづくトシを感じてしまったのだった。

家に戻りソファーでクタっと横たわっているとまだまだ遊び足りないベビ子がボクの体をめがけて飛び込んできた。
「オトー、海で遊びぼーよ」
「ええ、今海から帰ってきたんだよ。ちょっとオトー疲れたから休憩してからでもいい?」
「えー、だってー、サーフィンしたいんだもん」
「えっ?」
ボクは横たわっていた重たい体を腹筋をフルに使ってサッと起こした。
「え? サーフィンしたいの?」
「うんっ!」
「よーしっ、やるかっ!」
疲れていたはずのボクはベビ子のその一言で一気に元気を取り戻し、素早くテキパキした動きで海にいく準備に取り掛かった。
結局体の疲れなんてものは心持ちひとつでどうにでもなってしまうものなのだろう。
>> 次のページ >> Ride on the wave!!

タグ: , ,

Grafton finished second with 123 points

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I hope this is what I will be remembered for

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ベビ子物語 vol 51  〜ボンゴンが身を救う!?〜

楽しそうにしてました!

楽しそうにしてました!


一般的に我が子のことを偏狭的かつ狂信的に絶賛する親のことを総称して「親バカ」という。
親バカ。
いいじゃないか、親バカ。
誰になんといわれようとも我が娘を称賛するのが親の務めではないのか。
最近ではすっかり開き直り、迷いなく親バカを自負するようになってしまっているのだ。

さあ、我が愛娘ベビ子の話をしよう。
今週からバリの幼稚園に通い始めたベビ子。
1歳半から通っていたプレスクールには日本人のお友達が何人もいた。
しかし新たに通い始める幼稚園の同じ学年には日本人がいない。
ベビ子にとっては完全にアウェイ状態。
少しずつ英語ができるようになっているとはいえ日本語に比べてみたらまだまだのレベル。
そんな逆境の中でクラスのお友だちに打ち解けていかなくてはならないベビ子。
親バカとしては心配である反面どのようにその壁を破っていくのか非常に楽しみだ。
そんな理由から最近の親バカは親バカズラして娘の幼稚園のお迎えにちょこちょこ顔を出すようになっているのだ。

幼稚園初日。
終業時間より大幅に早めに幼稚園を訪れた。
気になって気になって仕方なかったのだ。
とにかくメゲないでくれよ、と祈るような思いで教室を覗いてみた。
ベビ子レーダーを発動し、すぐに姿を発見した。
するとある女の子と仲良さそうにしているではないか。
時折笑顔も浮かべている。
よかった〜。
まずはいい滑り出し。
しかしまだまだ本領は発揮していないようだ。
まだいつものひょうきんベビ子の持ち味は出していないようだった。
>> 次のページ >> そこである作戦を立てたのです!

タグ: None

落とし穴

つぶれた自転車のカゴ

つぶれた自転車のカゴ


海外で暮らすということは楽しい反面、落とし穴もある。
落とし穴にハマり、あえなく帰国する人も少なくない。
やはり我々はどこまでいっても外国人。
カモにされてしまうことだってある。
外国では日本では考えられないような予期せぬ危険が潜んでいるのだ。

先日、ボクの身に実際に起きた落とし穴のお話をしよう。
その日、妻と娘の帰宅が遅くなったのでボクは一人で夕食をとることになった。
寂しいが仕方がない。
こういうこともあるのだ。
仕方なく近所のファーストフード店に自転車で出かけた。

バリは日中強い太陽の日差しのもとで明るく輝いているのだが、夜になると暗闇が広がる。
そんなところに予期せぬ危険が潜んでいたのだ。
そのときのボクはそんな危険など知る由もなく気分良くペダルを漕いでいた。
涼しいバリの夜風が頬をなでていった。
もう少しでファーストフードにたどり着くという寸前のところで事件は起きたのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 事件はファーストフード前の歩道で起きた!?

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一応真冬のバリ島

風が涼し〜。海も冷たいです。

風が涼し〜。海も冷たいです。


ぞくぞくとバリ島にやってきていた友人たちも無事日本に帰り、静かなバリの日常が戻ってきた。
ラマダンとよばれる断食も終わり、インドネシアもお休みモードから日常を取り戻しているようだ。

この時期のバリ島は一応真冬ということになる。
一応南半球に位置するバリ島は一応冬なのだ。
南半球といっても赤道付近に位置しているわけなので、真冬といっても常夏なのでやっぱり暑い暑い。
風は涼しいが直射日光は相変わらずの威力を発揮している。
冬といってもあくまでも「一応」なのだ。 続きを読む…

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秘密プロジェクト開始!

海を眺めながら・・・

海を眺めながら・・・


実を言うと秘密裏にあるプロジェクトを進めていた。
話が舞い込んできた当初はすぐに実現できるとタカをくくっていた。
しかし意外にも大小様々な障壁にぶつかりつつなかなか実現にはいたらなかった。

先日、そのプロジェクトを共に進めてきたインドネシア人の友人が我が家にやってきた。
海を眺めながらコーヒーをすすっているときにその彼がボソッと「あれから1年ですね〜」とつぶやいた。
ボクは一瞬なんのことを言っているのかわからなかった。
キョトン顏のボクをよそに「面白いです。ちょうど1年前、ここでコーヒーを片手に海を眺めながらこのプロジェクトの話を初めてしたんですよ」とその彼は続けた。
「え? そうだっけ?」
「そうですよ。だって、ちょうど去年の断食が始まったときだったからよく覚えてるんですよ」と。

そうか、そういえばそうかもしれない。
当初1〜2ヶ月で決まると思っていたこのプロジェクトに1年もの時間を要してしまったのか。
しかも、その時点ではまだ決定にまで至っていなかった。
それにしてもよく諦めずにここまで進めてこれたなと我ながら関心した。
>> 次のページ >> ようやくその時がやってきた!

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