SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

Stay foolish (バカであれ!)

NALU No34, 5.2003 初の記事が掲載

NALU No34, 5.2003 初の記事が掲載


たったひとりでバリ島のお正月ニュピを過ごした。(その記事はこちら)
ベランダでビンタンビールを飲みつつ過去の自分、今の自分、将来の自分に思いを巡らせた。

過去の自分と今の自分とを見比べてみたときにひとつの驚くべき事実が浮かび上がってきた。
それは『思考は現実になる』ということ。
これは、よく自己啓発系の本などでもいわれていることなのだが、もしかしたらこれは本当のことかもしれないと思ったのだ。

20代のころのボクはとにかくサーフィン一色の日々であった。
プロサーファーを夢見て、サーフィンに明け暮れる毎日だった。
「年をとってもずっと自由にサーフィンができたらな」などとバカな夢を見ながら。
>> 次のページは >> 不思議と思いは現実となる

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サーフィン道を歩んでいくために

本日もメロウにロングボード

本日もメロウにロングボード


ボクのバリでのライフスタイルは基本午前中はサーフィンなのである。
土曜も日曜も盆も正月もゴールデンウィークもシルバーウィークも関係なく仕事をするかわりに午前中は海なのである。
丸1日の休日を潔く諦めるかわりに毎日サーフィンできる環境を作ったのだ。

しかし現実的には毎日サーフィンというわけにはなかなかいかない。
まず42歳の中年体には体力的に厳しい。
5日も連続でサーフィンすると体に疲れがどしーんと溜まってくる。
体の芯のほうが疲れ始めてしまうのだ。
そうなるとやはり回復に2日くらいかかってしまう。
また、サーフィンに対するモチベーションが著しく低下することもある。
いくらサーフィンが好きとはいえ、やはりその辺のアップダウンはあるのだ。 続きを読む…

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It is literally just an attack speed steroid that is not even

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ロングボードの季節

本日のライテンダー

本日のライテンダー


本日も快晴なりなバリ島。
雨季から乾季へと少しずつ季節を移しているわけであるが、季節の変わり目というのがなかなか手強いのだ。
とにかく暑い。
あくまでも暑い。
とことん暑いのだ。

風が止み、連日グラッシーで波は最高だし、この時期は海もわりとすいている。
ストレスなくサーフィンが楽しめる。
しかし海から上がると暑い暑い。
日本でたっぷり蓄えた『脂肪』も汗とともに流れていきそうな気配だ。
続きを読む…

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Wayne is an awesome dude, I met him a few times (never been tattooed by him) he is much more humble than you might think. He loves everything about tattooing, just some insight, he is a real punk dude, from the punk rock culture, and he is in his early 30 Maybe some people are more comfortable getting tattooed by someone with 20 years experience vs. 10 years experience.

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I speak as someone who naturally has rapid emotional buoyancy and also was able to increase it further through extensive CBT about 10 years ago. It was a wake up call for me to realize that other people are unable to bounce back as fast as me. My husband has also been through extensive CBT and his come down period is naturally longer.

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Mirror:At least once a day we look into a mirror and see an image of ourselves. But have you ever stopped to think about the image you’re looking at? A mirror image is actually a reverse picture. Left is right, right is left. It has been speculated that Kelly eventual successor would be offensive coordinator Mark Helfrich, but Mullens was steadfast in asserting that the University of Oregon would interview both internal and external candidates. Still, Mullens is focused on choosing the right candidate for the job.”We’re not going to be driven by timeline.Mullens initial statement came before his 2 PM press conference:”I want to thank Chip for his leadership and commitment to building on the Oregon Football foundation of excellence. We have enjoyed incredible success over the past four years.

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