SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

季節の訪れ

清々しい朝です!

清々しい朝です!


一回の雨が季節を入れ替えることがある。
昨日の雨がまさにそんな感じであった。

バリ島において季節外れのスコールが落ちてきた。
乾季に雨が降ることは珍しいことだ。
乾ききった大地が突然の降雨を歓迎しているように感じた。
バイクに乗っている人たちが道端にバイクを寄せ、大慌てでレインコートに着替えていた。
そんな光景を車から眺めながらなぜか雨がボクの心を落ち着かせてくれているのを感じていた。

雨が上がるとそれまで島を覆っていた熱気が雨とともに大地に流れてしまったようであった。
涼しい空気が辺りを漂っていた。
南半球に位置するバリ島はこれから「冬本番」を迎える。
まあ、冬といっても日本でいうところのゴールデンウィーク明けあたりから梅雨入り前あたりの気候に近いかもしれない。
ボクにとっては一年のうちで一番好きな季節だ。

夜寝る時、久しぶりに長袖に手を通した。
寝苦しくて目を覚ますこともなかった。
バリ島にも心地の良い季節が訪れたようだ。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウント『Kei Arimoto』では友だち上限に達してしまったため、『フォロー』という形でこれからも皆さんと繋がっていけたらと思ってます。インスタグラムkeiarimotoも始めましたのでそちらもよろしくお願いします。サーファー、海好き、バリ好きの皆さん、遠慮なくフォローしてくださいね!

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ゆくバリくるバリ

静まり返っているワルン

静まり返っているワルン


夕方、ボクはいつもの馴染みのワルン(軽食堂的な)にやってきた。
ここはボクが大好きなサーフスポットの目の前に佇んでいる。
でも今日はいつもとは様子が違った。
お客さんの姿がどこにもない。
夕方になると呑んだくれてゲラゲラ笑っているローカルの面々もいない。
いつもの賑わいがまるでない。
静かな海辺のワルン。
いいじゃないか。
こういうのもたまには悪くない。
ボクはまったりと夕日を眺めながらコーヒーを飲んで静かな時を過ごした。
続きを読む…

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バリのお祭りはエライのだ!

バリ島はいつでもどこでもお祭りだ

バリ島はいつでもどこでもお祭りだ


バリと言えばお祭りだ。
サーフィンではない。
お祭りだ。
とにかく一年中いつでもどこでもお祭りが行われている。
バリにおいてはお祭りが一番エライわけであって、お祭りがあればどんなに大切な仕事があってもあっけなく休んでしまうのだ。
堂々と胸を張って休むのだ。
日本の社会において「すいません。来週はお祭りがありますので3日間休ませてもらいます」などと我が物顔で上司に言ったとしたらきっとそのまま戻る席を失うことになるだろう。
でもバリではこれが当たり前なのだ。
つくづく日本の常識などは世界出てしまうと全く通用しないということを痛感してしまう。

お祭りというとピーヒャラピーヒャラ笛太鼓で出店が出ていてというイメージを思い浮かべてしまうが、バリでは結婚式やお葬式、子どもの誕生日も何もかもお祭りというカテゴリーに入ってくる。
先日、サラスワティというお祭りが行われていた。
毎日色々なところで様々なお祭りがあるわけなのだが、サラスワティはバリ中が統一的にそのお祭りとなるわけなのでお祭りの中でもエライお祭りなのだ。
まあ正直言って年がら年中お祭りをやっているわけなのでボクにとってはさして興味もないのであるが、この日はそんな無関心を装っていられないような事態が起こっていた。
>> 次のページは >> 家から出られない??

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首位攻防戦につき緊急帰国!? 

嫁が「今のけいくんと同じじゃん」と言った少年時代

嫁が「今のけいくんと同じじゃん」と言った少年時代


はっきり言って、Saltwater Playersでもなんでもない話題だ。

何を隠そうボクは小1の夏あたりから熱狂的な広島カープファンだ。
両親が広島出身だったことから、少年時代は夏休みのほぼ95%は広島で過ごしていた。
祖父を始め、親戚の人たちが当然のようにカープファンだったためボクも自然とカープを応援するようになっていった。

夏休みになるとおじいちゃんに手を引かれて広島市民球場に行き、声を枯らして応援していた。
そのときからボクのアタマの中は真っ赤に染まっている。
少年時代のボクの部屋はカープの選手たちのポスターや雑誌の切り抜きで覆われていた。
文字通りカープ少年だった。
今でも遠くは離れたバリ島から『Yahooプロ野球一球速報』で今までと変わらず広島カープを応援しているのだ。 続きを読む…

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日本のサーファー人口

波がなくてもサーファーはいっぱい

波がなくてもサーファーはいっぱい


日本には一体何人のサーファーがいるのだろうか。
いやまて。
その前にどっからがサーファーなのだろうか。
1年に1回サーフィンをする人もサーファーなのだろうか。
まあ、サーファーといってもいいのかもしれない。
本人が自分はサーファーである、と思うのであればそれはそれで立派なサーファーであろう。
それでいいのだ。

ではそういう人も含めて一体日本にはどれくらいのサーファー人口がいるのだろうか。
ちょっと調べてみたところ、どうもこういった統計はないようだ。
一説には100万とも200万とも言われている。
これが多いのか少ないのかはわからない。 続きを読む…

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We said at our last meeting that we are quite happy with the

The bright green and gold jerseys on the dozens of high school football players, just like the ones Jackson used to wear. The NYPD blue on the colleagues of his mother, Morna Davis, a police detective. Military Academy cadets who made the trip from West Point to say goodbye to a teammate, classmate and brother..

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事故当時の状況

サヌールでは救急車が待機

サヌールでは救急車が待機


現地の情報によると、レンボガン島でスキューバダイビング中に流された日本人7名のうち5名の無事が確認された模様だ。
ペニダ島近海で発見されたのだが、衰弱していた1名はヘリコプターによりバリ島へ搬送されたそうだ。
でも何はともあれ5名の方たちが無事に救出されたことは本当に嬉しいニュースだ。

実は今朝こんなことがあった。
近所でサーフィンをしようとサーフボードを抱えて海に向かいかけたときのことである。
それまではユルいオフショアでクリーンで理想的なコンディションだったのが、何の前触れもなく突如として強いオンショアが吹き始めてしまった。
せっかく海に入ろうとしていたのだが、オンショアが吹いては仕方がない。
ちょっと風がユルくなるまで待機することにした。 続きを読む…

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Being part of the KSDS community means being part of a family

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Psychohistory is another word Asimov invented that is now a

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In “Jeepers Creepers, Where is Peepers,” the transforming

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