SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

However, sheathes are as much for protecting the sword from

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サーファー的美容室

バリ移住計画を今週末に控えた私率いる有本ファミリー。
それなのに仕事を山ほど残してしまっており、そこそこ真顔で「やばいっ」を連発している。
今日こそはサーフィンを封印して仕事に専念しよう!と心に決めていたのだが・・・

美容師も客もウェットスーツ。新しい形です

美容師も客もウェットスーツ。新しい形です


友人の美容師モリオが、「バリに行く前に髪切ってあげるよ」といううれしい提案をしてくれたので、「じゃあ」と素直にお願いした。

「洋服のままだとさ、髪まみれになっちゃうからウェットスーツに着替えてきてよ」

と当然のような顔で大胆なことを言うモリオ。
そういう本人も海から上がってきたばかりの、ウェットスーツ姿。
仕方なしにウェットスーツに着替えてからのヘアカットとなった。
サーファーが美容師で、客もサーファーで、台風のスウェルが入ってきたりするとこういう形になるが自然の摂理。

超いい波でした〜

超いい波でした〜

サクサクッとカットをしてもらい、「じゃ、髪まみれになっちゃったから仕方ないけど海に入りますかっ」ということになり、結局本日も夕方1Rサーフィンしてしまった。
まったく意思の弱い僕。
でも、それでも、夕方の辻堂は頭半近いセットが入ってきており、しかもキレたいい波。
相変わらず意思は弱かったけど、まったく後悔はしていないのです。

明日はいっそのことクローズアウトしてくれたほうが、仕事がはかどりそうだが、どうなることでしょうか。
ぎりぎりクローズしないっていう感じにならなければいいな、と密かに思っているのです。
そうなると、再び誘惑に負けてしまいそうです。

(有本圭)

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NO 三種の神器生活始まる

なかなか良さそうですね〜

なかなか良さそうですね〜


バリ島移住まで1週間を切った。
切ってしまった。
完全に追いつめられている僕は、台風からのグランドスウェルが事務所から100mのところにどんどん到達しているにも関わらず、仕事に追われているのだ。
どうして追いつめられないとできないのだろう、と後悔しても仕方がない。
このような傾向は幼少時代にもさかのぼり、夏休みの宿題は始業式後に始めていたのを思い出す。 続きを読む…

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さすがのワシも

バリ島移住決行日まで1週間。
いつも呑気なサーフィンライフを楽しんでいる僕ですが、さすがに追いつめられ始めている。
仕事は片付かないし、引越の準備も思うように進んでいない。
そのうえ、タイミングの悪いことに、湘南には台風スウェルが入ってきている。

「よくこんな忙しいときにサーフィンできるよね」
と嫁に、キッと睨まれたが、
「今日が辻堂での最後のサーフィンになるかもしれないから」
と言い訳をして昨日今日と海に入っている。

ほどよいサイズでいい波でした〜

ほどよいサイズでいい波でした〜


もちろん、明日も明後日もそして明々後日も波が続くことは予想できているので、「今日が最後かも」というのは限りなくウソに近いのだが、でも完全にウソとも言えない。
いきなり台風が予想進路と大きく違う動きをしないとも限らないからだ。

ま、なんやかんやと言い訳をしつつ、波乗りをしてしまう僕。
さすがに焦り始めてきている。
バリ島移住まで残すところあと1週間。
いっそのこと、波が無くなってくれれば一気に作業が進むのだが・・・。
幸か不幸か、出国のその日まで波が続いてくれそうな感じになってきてしまっているのだ。

ただ混乱していくだけの仕事部屋

ただ混乱していくだけの仕事部屋


ということで、作業は夜を中心に行われるのです。

(有本圭)

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RASHさんにお世話になることになりました!

鎌倉稲村ケ崎に本社があるRASH WETSUIT

鎌倉稲村ケ崎に本社があるRASH WETSUIT


サーファーにとって、サーフボードと同等に大切なアイテム。
それはウェットスーツですよね。
このたび、老舗ウェットスーツブランドで、鎌倉生まれの『RASH』に移籍することになりました。
ウェットスーツのクオリティ、という部分では日本最高峰と言われているブランドであるRASHからサポートしていただけるのは、この上なく光栄なことです。 続きを読む…

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シェイプセッション

かの伝説のシェイパー、ディック・ブルーワー氏に師事をあおぎ、その彼に日本人でもっとも評価されたシェイパーの一人、富永忠男。
現在、天国に一番近い島ニューカレドニアで暮らしている富永氏が、この10月に帰国している。
稲村ケ崎出身の富永氏は、鎌倉のロコサーファーたちの間で、今もなお厚い信頼をおかれており、ショップこそないが、湘南鎌倉支部で1、2を争うほどのクラブ員数を誇っている。

今回、その富永さんのシェイプセッションに、辻堂の橋前PをホームブレイクとしているJunが参加した。

Jun Tokuda

Jun Tokuda


彼は今年に入ってからコンテストにも顔を出すようになり、安定した結果を残し始めている。
サーフィンの腕前は辻堂でも指折りで、スタイリッシュなサーフスタイルを見せてくれるサーファー。
コンテストに出始め、サーフボードに対する意識が高まり、今回のオーダーに至ったというわけだ。

最初の一時間だけ、と予定してシェイプルームに入ったJunだったが、結局シェイプの全行程が終わるまでの約3時間もの間、一歩もシェイプルームから出てくることはなかった。 続きを読む…

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波がないおかげで

セットでヒザくらい

セットでヒザくらい


いいタイミングで波がなくなってくれた。
いよいよ、バリ島移住を来週に控えた僕ら有本ファミリー。
先週まで波が続いたせいで、移住準備がはかどらず、やや焦り気味だったが、ここ3日間でかなり進めることができた。 続きを読む…

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FUNな感じですね〜

Fun Wave!!

Fun Wave!!


日射しは、夏のそれとさほど変わらないが、乾いた空気が気持ちいい。
ハワイで迎える朝を思い出した。
日陰に入るとちょっと肌寒いが、日にあたると汗ばむ。
たぶん、人間にとってもっとも気持ちのいい気候だ。 続きを読む…

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