SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

盆と正月がいっぺんに

混雑していたがパーフェクトレフトでした!

混雑していたがパーフェクトレフトでした!


3日前にエアポートリーフでいい波をゲットして気分良く家に帰るとカメラをワルンに忘れてきたことに気づいた。
子どもの時分から忘れ物が多いことで有名だった僕だが、その傾向は今でもまったく変わっていない。
以前、同じワルンにあろうことかサーフボードを置き忘れたことがあった。
今回も「ああ、またKEIネ〜」と半ば呆れられてしまったのだが、カメラを取りに行くという理由で昨日もエアポートレフトのパーフェクトブレイクを御馳走になった。
しかしオチはしっかりあり、最後の最後でヒザを軽くひねってしまったのだ。 続きを読む…

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She makes no attempt at a secret identity

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36年ぶりの再会!!

富永さんと36年前に氏が作ったサーフボード

富永さんと36年前に氏が作ったサーフボード


僕にサーフボードを提供してくれているシェイパーでありサーファーの富永忠男さんは現在57歳。
なんとその富永さんが21歳のときに作ったサーフボードが先日、偶然にビンテージサーフボードを取り扱うSHOP、『STANDARD STORE』にて発見された。

その当時、かの世界的レジェンドであるディック・ブリューワー氏の元でシェイピングの腕を磨き、氏にも認められたというから富永さんのシェイピングの腕は本物だ。
36年前、21歳の富永さんがどんなボードを削っていたのだろうか。
考えただけでワクワクしてしまう。
36年前に自分が作ったサーフボードと対面した富永さんはどんな気持ちだったのだろうか。
それってすごいよな〜。
うん、すごいことだよ。
36年前というと僕が4歳。
4歳のときの僕が思いを込めて作った何かがどこかしらのお店に大切に置かれていてそれと遭遇するということだろ。
それってやっぱりすごいことだ。
まあ、そんなことはあり得ないんだけど。

とまあ、そんなようなことを悶々と考えていたら真夜中にいたるまでパッチリと目が冴えてしまい、いてもたってもいられなくなった僕は思わず深夜に『STANDARD STORE』にメールを送ってしまったのだ。

「どうかどうか、こんな哀れな僕に富永さんが36年前に作ったというかのサーフボードを譲っていただけないでしょうか。どうか100万円なら売りますよ、なんてツレないことは言わないでください」

というような内容だったと思う。 続きを読む…

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贅沢言っちゃあいけないよ

この1週間、連日の飲みによりとうとう昨日軽めのダウン。
無理すればなんとかなるレベルだったのだが、自らダウンした。
ここで無理すると悪化の一途をたどって、長引いたりするのを経験で知っているのだ。
そんなことができるようになったのは僕にとっては大きな成長の1歩だ。
まあ、40歳にもなってそんなことで「成長したぞ〜」なんて自慢していること自体相当にレベルが低いのだろうがそれはそれでいいのだ。

セットでカタくらいのいい波です!

セットでカタくらいのいい波です!


昨日、ソッコーで病院にかけこんで点滴を2本入れてもらったおかげで本日は快調にサーフィンした。
乾期の風に変わってきていたのと、今年の始めにバリで出会った桜井さんとセッションするためにエアポートリーフにお邪魔した。 続きを読む…

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Do not throw used needles into your regular garbage

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思い通りにはいかないものよのう

レトロボードも自在に操るkick

レトロボードも自在に操るkick


本日41歳になったクタローカルサーファーのKick。
昨日までは『タメ』だったのだが、今日から4ヶ月ほどは先輩になる。
ということで今日からタメ口は禁止になり、敬語での会話へと移行する。
まあ、そんなことはないのだが、彼はバリ島で30年以上のサーフィンキャリアがあるサーファーだ。
それに引き換え僕は湘南を中心に20年そこそこ。
年齢は同じだが、サーファーとしては大先輩であり、サーファーとしてリスペクトをしている男なのだ。 続きを読む…

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楽しんだサーファーがエライのだ

team SPROUTとのサーフセッション

team SPROUTとのサーフセッション


辻堂のサーフショップ『SPROUT』チームとのサーフセッションはサーフィンの基本を思い出させてくれた。
やっぱりサーフィンは楽しくなくっちゃ。
バリに来てからというもの、波のコンディションが良かったこともあって、どうも眉間にシワを寄せつつマジメにサーフィンしすぎていた気がするのだ。
やっぱりサーフィンはスマイル。
そのほうがサーフィン自体も調子がいいのだ。
サーフィンは意外なほどメンタルなスポーツ。
重い悩み事なんかを抱えながら海に入ってもサーフィンがバラバラになることが多いものだ。
続きを読む…

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November losses to (12 6) and (29 15) hinted that there may be

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バリ@ロングボーダー

TEAM SPROUT

TEAM SPROUT


湘南辻堂のサーフショップ『SPROUT』チームがバリにやってきた。
先週まで小波が続いていたバリの波のコンディションを心配していたオーナーのたくみくんだったが、フタを空けてみると到着した当日から奇跡のサイズアップ。
普段のおこないがいいのか、それは不明だがとにかくラッキーなチームなのだ。 続きを読む…

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They were able to drive to Toronto to catch a jam packed

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