SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

On a snowy, overcast day, North Korea bid farewell to “Dear

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It also gives the impression the Minotaur is the Big Bad

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ストレス解消!

ようやく少しばかり波が出てきた。
こんなふうに波に翻弄されるライフスタイルになってから早20年。
いつでも最高の波が立つポイントの目の前で暮らすのが密かなる夢なのだが、よくよく考えてみるとそれはそれでサーフィンがつまらなくなってしまうのだろうか。
こんな感じで良くなったり悪くなったりするからこそ波のいいときに感動できるのではないだろうか。
などとどうでもいいようなことを考えつつポイントに向かった。

お!なかなかいい波だぞ〜〜

お!なかなかいい波だぞ〜〜


波のコンディションはセットでムネ〜カタのなかなかのGood Wave。
サーファーもまばらでストレスなく波をチョイスできる。
久しぶりに海に入ったサヌールのロコサーファーMIKIも「やっぱりサーフィンバグースネ〜〜」と抜けるような笑顔を見せた。
やっぱりサーフィンはバグース!なのだ!!

やっぱりサーフィンはバグース!なのだ!!


そう、やっぱりサーフィンは最高。
アウターリーフで海のスケールを感じながら波に乗っていると尚更感じること。
ここ数日間くすぶっていた「ちぇっ、波小さいなー」という小さな『ストレス』から解放された瞬間だった。
こんなことで『ストレス』なんていう大それた言葉を使ってしまうとヒンシュクを買いそうだが、他に置き換える言葉が見当たらないところをみると、やはり僕にとっては『ストレス』だったようだ。

(有本圭)

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Wrench Wench: Monique turns out to be one

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静まり返ったバリ島

穏やかすぎる海

穏やかすぎる海


バリ島中がニュピで静まりかえったの同じくして、波までも穏やかになってしまった。
波のコンスタント具合なら世界屈指のバリ島でもここ数日間はウネリの弱い状態が続いている。
恐るべしニュピパワー?
なんだか波も含めて全体的に静まりかえってしまったようだ。 続きを読む…

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リバウンド

ニュピ後の美しい朝焼け

ニュピ後の美しい朝焼け


ニュピ(バリのお正月)で丸一日バリ島から車やバイクが消えた。
たった一日だけなのに恐ろしく空気がキレイになってしまうのだ。
昨晩の星空もすごかったが、今朝のサンライズもそれはそれは美しかった。
明け方に雨が降ったせいで空気が洗われたのだ。 続きを読む…

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Determinator: Another of the many things that make Checker

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謹賀新年@バリ方式

誰もいない海。人っ子一人いません

誰もいない海。人っ子一人いません


バリで初めて迎えるニュピ(お正月)。
昨日3月12日は労働はおろか外出も禁止、電気をつけることさえも禁止される一日。
当然テレビもラジオもやっていない。
最初は「めんどくせーなー」なんて思っていたが、いざ過ごしてみるとこれがいいのだ。
街からは一切の車やバイクが消え、飛行機すら飛ばない。
海を往来する船の姿も無い。
聞こえるのは小鳥と鶏と犬とたちの声のみ。
人間が営みを全て止めるとここまで静かで穏やかな一日になることを知ったのだ。 続きを読む…

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ということで乗り納め

明日、3月12日はバリ島のお正月にあたるニュピ。
ニュピの日は外出はおろか、電気をつけることも制限される。
街からは喧噪が消え、全ての機能が停止する。
仮に、わーい誰もいないぞ〜、などとヨロコビつつ海などに入ってしまうと警察やそれに似た組織に捕まり、たんまり罰金を払わせられるらしい。

朝の6時から翌朝6時までの24時間。
家族や友人たちと過ごす一日。
そんな一日もいいじゃないか。
こういう日に強制的にたっぷり家族の時間を過ごすのも悪くない。

貸切ブレイクで乗り納め

貸切ブレイクで乗り納め


本日3月11日はニュピの前日なので大晦日的な日にあたる。
ということは今日のサーフィンは『乗り納め』ということになる。
完全貸切ブレイクを発見し、そこでバリ2012(13?どっち?)の乗り納めをすることができたのだ。 続きを読む…

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大震災があったからこそ

壊滅的な被害を受けた女川

壊滅的な被害を受けた女川


あれから二年。
あの日からいろいろなことが変わってしまった。
その当時、被災地とは離れた湘南で暮らしていた僕ですらあの日を境に変わったことがたくさんある。
ましてや被災された方たちにとっては『変わった』などという軽い言葉では済まされないほどの衝撃があったことだろう。 続きを読む…

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