SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

“When he said that, I was like, ‘Are you serious?'” said

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All of the Other Reindeer: Izuna and Naruto are rejected

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“They got penetration and pushed a lineman onto Dalton’s ankle

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やっぱりこれが一番大事!

今回の日本出張は僕にしては相当に珍しくマジメに仕事をしている。
まあ、普段バリ島でのんびり過ごしているわけだから日本に帰っているときくらい仕事をしないでいつやるの?
今でしょ!
というわけで1週間の滞在だったわけだが波チェックしたのがわずか1回のみ。
波とのタイミングが合わずに今回は残念ながらサーフィンする機会はなかった。

まずはアウトラインから

まずはアウトラインから


色々と大切な仕事があったが、その中でも第一優先事項だったのがシェイパー富永さんとのシェイプセッション。
タイミングを合わせてニューカレドニアから帰国してくれていた富永さんとお互い忙しい時間をなんとかやりくりして次のサーフボードのデザインを話し合った。
毎回新しい試みをして、それをテストするのは本当に楽しいことだ。 続きを読む…

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Morality Chain / Love Makes You Evil: Myung Hee manages to be

Ax Crazy: Catalina, full stop. Later it’s revealed that Zeorymer recognizes Akitsu as its master, leaving Wakatsuki helpless. There’s a nice shot of her bare chest. Humongous Mecha: Jumboman.. Morality Chain / Love Makes You Evil: Myung Hee manages to be both of these for Moon Shik, who accepted a Deal with the Devil to save her life from the Elder.

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花粉攻撃2013

日本に帰ってきて5日が経った。
たった5日なのに・・・
花粉症2013、発症のご報告です。
そんな報告いらんわっ、という声が聞こえてきそうだが報告するのだ。
やはり日本は甘くなかった。
今朝起きると鼻がムズムズ、目がショボショボ、しっかり正しい花粉症にかかってしまった。

波はなくても美しい湘南

波はなくても美しい湘南


こういうときはザブンッ、と海に入ると一気に症状が軽減される。
波さえあれば迷わず海に入るのだが・・・
残念ながらここ最近波がないようだ。
本日も波チェックはしてみるが波はまったくない。
まあこれも含めて湘南なので仕方がない。
ないときはないっ。

波がなくても夕暮れに浮かぶ日本一の山を眺めているだけで心が洗われる。
しかし、僕の目と鼻は洗われなかったでした。

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帰国につき本日はのんびりなり

セットの波は大きかったですよ〜

セットの波は大きかったですよ〜


ここ数日間、強烈なオフショアが吹き続けているサヌールエリア。
それと同時にしっかりとスウェルが反応してきている。
明日からの日本出張をひかえている僕はあまりムキになってサーフィンをしてしまうと長時間の移動の疲れと合わさって体調を崩しかねないので今日は軽めのサーフィンにしておいた。 続きを読む…

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いい波いい飯 no クラゲ

クラゲ地獄から一夜明けた。
とにかく全身がかゆい。
今日もサーフィンはしたいけど、クラゲだけはもうごめんだ。
ということで本日はサヌールからずーっと北に上がったところのシークレットスポットに足を伸ばすことにした。
きっとあそこまでいけばクラゲはいないだろう、ということではないのだが、なんとなく遠ければ大丈夫なような気がしたのだ。

さあ、やってまいりました〜

さあ、やってまいりました〜


ロコサーファーのMIKIと愛知から世界を放浪しているシュータローと3人でロングドライブ。
ショータローチョイスのmusicで終始ノリノリであっという間にポイントに到着した。 続きを読む…

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バグースか〜ら〜の地獄

ここ数日と同じ流れで本日も強風になる予報。
そこでいつもより早く目覚ましをセットしてハイヤットリーフへ向かった。
風こそ強いがウネリが入ってきている。
風さえなければいい波にありつけるはず。
期待を胸にポイントへ到着した。

おっといい波! 風吹くな〜

おっといい波! 風吹くな〜


予想通り波は良さそう。
サイズもそこそこだし、まだサーファーの姿もない。
「バグースね〜〜」
と喜びつつボートから海へ飛び込んだ。

波はセットでカタくらいのホレたパワフルブレイク。
ときよりパックリと口をあけるバレルも出現し始めていた。 続きを読む…

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ダメな一日

ここ数日、風の強い日が続いている。
サヌールエリアはオフショアではあるが、どうにも風が強すぎる。
僕の場合、テイクオフしようとすると水しぶきが目に入ってしまい、コンタクトレンズがあっという間に奪われてしまう。
すると戦意喪失、やる気も失せ、さっさと海から上がってしまうというオチになってしまうのだ。

朝からウロウロと動き回ってポイントを探してはみたものの、どこもかしこも風が強い。
まれに風のかわすところはサーファーでごった返していた。

風が気持ちいいのう

風が気持ちいいのう

続きを読む…

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