SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

突然の大嵐で・・・

先日のことだ。
車のフロントガラスに雨粒がついた。
ああ、また雨か〜、なんとか家に着くまでもってほしいな。
そんな風に思いながらアクセルをいつもより強めに踏み込んだ。
なにしろ駐車場から我が家までは5分ほど歩かなくてはならないのでスコールになってしまったらびしょ濡れになってしまう。

突然の大雨で駐車場が池になることも

突然の大雨で駐車場が池になることも


僕の願いとは裏腹にものの3分もしない間に土砂降りになってしまった。
バケツをひっくり返すような雨とはこのことだ。
しかもこの日は雨と同時に突風のような風が吹き荒れた。
日本でいうと台風直撃時のような惨状だった。
家の近くまで戻ってきたが、ひどい風雨はとどまる気配がなかったので雨宿りがてら近所のマッサージ屋さんでいつものお決まりの1時間全身マッサージコースを受けながら風雨が去るのを待った。 続きを読む…

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ちびっ子には負けるわ@おっさんサーファー 

セットでカタくらいのFun Wave

セットでカタくらいのFun Wave


数ヶ月ぶりにスランガンに行ってみた。
スランガンとはいうなれば江ノ島的な小ちゃい島なのだ。
サヌールエリアではもっともスウェルの反応が良く、他が小波でもコンスタントにムネ〜アタマくらいの波が立っているポイントだ。
ボトムはリーフなのだが、ブレイクはビーチブレイクのようで、ピークは何カ所にもばらける。
ある程度混雑しても波にありつきやすいのが特徴だ。

波質は潮の加減やウネリの方向でも変化していく。
マシーンブレイクではないが変化に富んでいるブレイクは練習にはもってこいだ。
しかもサヌールエリアでは貴重なグーフィーブレイクのクオリティそこそこに高いのだ。 続きを読む…

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NGC 1851, NGC 1904, NGC 2298 and NGC 2808 are thought to have

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恵みの雨??

雨期のバリ島は久しぶりに朝から雨期らしい天気になっている。
ハイヤットリーフで波が出てくるのを待っているとザーっとスコールが襲ってきた。
「まあ10分くらいしたらやむでしょ〜」
なんて具合にのんびり構えていたが一向にやむ気配がない。

みんなでポイントに行ってみるが・・・

みんなでポイントに行ってみるが・・・


一瞬雨のやんだ隙に海に入ってみたが波は今一つ。
サイズが小さいうえに潮の流れが入ってしまっていた。
そのうえサーファーが集中して入ってきてしまい、まさにプアーなコンディション。 続きを読む…

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まさにバグースコンディション!

右からkick, yuki,kei

右からkick, yuki,kei


クタのロコサーファーKickのお客さんであるYukiが明日帰国するということでご一緒させてもらうことになった。
♫1月は正月で酒が飲めるぞ〜♫
というような感じで日々いろいろと言い訳しつつサーフィンをしているわけだが、本日のエアポートリーフは素晴らしいコンディションだった。
セットでアタマ半近い波もありました!

セットでアタマ半近い波もありました!


サイズは2〜3fと上がってきて、しかも風は午後までオフショア。
それに加えてサーファーの数はパラパラ。
エアポートリーフでは珍しく貸切状態の時間帯があったほどだ。 続きを読む…

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好みのコンディション

パーフェクトレギュラー

パーフェクトレギュラー


久しぶりにチョロっとサイズアップしてきた。
波がないない、と騒ぐわりには毎日ハラ〜カタくらいのサイズの波はあったため、待ちに待ったサイズアップというわけではないが、やっぱり波はあったほうがうれしい。
サヌールの北側のポイントが空いていていい波だ、という情報が入ったので足を伸ばしてみた。

波のサイズはセットでアタマくらいのキレイなレギュラーブレイク。
ロングボードならピークからテイクオフしても抜けることのできるFun Waveだ。
それなのにサーファーは数名。
波数を考えるとガラガラといっていい。 続きを読む…

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I’ve Got an X, and I’m Not Afraid to Use It!: Ken has a bar of

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頼みのチャングーで

壊滅的に波の小さいサヌールエリア。
どうしたサヌール!!?
どんなときでもわりとサイズのあるスランガンですらコシ〜ハラとかなりプアーなコンディション。
こういうこともあるんだ〜、と半ば諦めていたら、「ケイ、チャングーナミバグースヨ〜」という電話が入った。
また今日も波はないだろうと油断して、昨晩遅くまで深酒をしてしまっていたので完全に2日酔い状態だったが、『バグース』という言葉を信じてサヌールからチャングーへと車を走らせた。

チャングーにはなぜか波があるのです

チャングーにはなぜか波があるのです


1時間弱のドライブでチャングーに着く。
ウネリはしっかり入ってきていた。
セットでアタマくらいだろうか。
しっかりとしたスウェルがリーフにヒットしてレギュラー、グーフィーともに形のいいブレイクをみせていた。 続きを読む…

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ロングボードセッション@ハイヤットリーフ

波がないとはいえ、完全なるフラットにはならないバリ。
潮が上げてくる時間帯を狙えばなんとか遊べるくらいの波は続いているのだ。
今朝も波チェックをしたときにはヒザ〜コシくらいしか波はなかったが、徐々に潮の上げ込みとともに波が出てきた。

俺らロングボーダーズ!

俺らロングボーダーズ!


今日はサーフィンするのやめようかな、と思い始めたときに「じゃあ今日はみんなでロングボードやろうよ!」というロコサーファーの提案により、普段はショートでボードでブイブイ飛んだり跳ねたりしているロコたちとともにロングボードを引っ張り出してポイントへと向かった。 続きを読む…

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The Manxman (1929) Two childhood friends

Tropes found in this game include Attack Its Weak Point: The riot shield guards can only be shot in the back or slammed with doors. There are a lot of Characterization Tropes that can be used to quickly and non verbally introduce a character, and one of the sadder ones is the Friendless Background.

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Promotion to Opening Titles: The Auctioneers in season 5. Hell, he even made himself one! Manic Pixie Dream Replica Valentino Handbags Girl: Being John Malkovich and especially Sunshine deconstruct this to the extreme. The Manxman (1929) Two childhood friends, a fisherman and a lawyer, fall in love with the same girl.

Star Killing the Liturgy class cruisers developed on Ebon are capable of detonating a star’s photosphere to cause an artificial nova, killing all life in the system. It does piddling damage by itself, but load up a ballistic Mech with nothing but machine guns and you make it into a very effective close range brawler.

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