SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

『バリサーフトリップ、新たなスタイル』

オー、チョーシヨサソーネー

オー、チョーシヨサソーネー


湘南から友人Sさんがやってきた。
出張でシンガポールの帰りにサーフィンをするために他のメンバーをうまく丸め込んでバリにやってきたのだ。
しかし、あくまでも正しい出張なのでサーフボードを持ってくることはできない。
そこでSさんは考えた。
バリに来るタイミングで、バリでサーフボードをオーダーしておいてそれを受け取ってサーフィンしちゃおうという悪だくみだ。
サーファーはそういうところには天才的に頭が働くのだ。 続きを読む…

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遠いハッピーニューイヤー

我が有本家のハッピーニューイヤー2013は未だ訪れず。

いきなり元気全開のベビ子

いきなり元気全開のベビ子


年末、酷暑のバリ島から日本に帰国し、体調を崩していたベビ子の体調がようやく回復してきた。
それと同時にバリに戻ってから発熱などの体調不良に苦しんでいた僕も完治まではいかないが、どうにか快方に向かっている。

ようやく有本家にもハッピーなニューイヤーがやってきたかに思えたが・・・
我が家ではもっとも体の丈夫なド天然嫁がゲホゲホと咳をし始めてしまった。
うう、あっちが治ればこっちがダメになる。
まさにモグラたたき状態。
僕とベビ子の看病で、さすがの鉄人ド天然嫁も疲れたてしまったようだ。
まあ、ド天然嫁の場合はほとんど体調を崩さないのだけど、たまに崩しても寝ればすぐに回復するという高性能なので、もう少しで家族3人揃い組になれそうだ。

ということで体調が上向いた僕は1ヶ月ぶりにバリでのサーフィンを再開した。 続きを読む…

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トレード成功?

病院に向かう車の中。
助手席でド天然嫁の腕の中で苦しそうな表情を浮かべるベビ子。
熱は40.5℃をという高熱を出していた。
渋滞で車がつまる。
僕は左手でベビ子の額に手をかざし、「神様、僕がベビ子の熱を全部もらってあげますからどうかベビ子の熱を下げてやってください」と祈る。

本調子ではないがなんとか復活のベビ子

本調子ではないがなんとか復活のベビ子


その夜、病院でもらった薬がきいたのか、すっかり熱が下がったベビ子。
ホッと一安心していたのも束の間のことだった。
よし、ベビ子もよくなってきたことだし明日は波乗りするか。
目覚ましを5時半にセットし、早めにベッドにもぐりこむ。
風も弱まっているので、明日はいい波に乗ることができそうだ。 続きを読む…

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洗礼

真冬の日本から南国の島やってきて、わーい夏だ夏だ〜、とヨロコンデいられるのは独り身の若かりし頃の専売特許かもしれない。
暑いところから寒いところに行くのはキツいけど、逆はまったく問題ないと思っていたが、なかなかそうはいかなかった。

日本の寒さでやや体調を崩してしまっていた僕の愛娘ベビ子は、バリにやってくると気候が良いせいか、日本にいるときの倍くらいのテンションの高さではしゃぎ始めた。
「やっぱりベビ子にはバリが合ってるみたいだね〜」などと呑気に夫婦でその光景を目を細めながら眺めていたのだが、翌朝にいきなり高熱を出してしまった。

40度超えでも食欲は衰えないベビ子

40度超えでも食欲は衰えないベビ子


気温差、長時間の移動、環境の変化などはやはり1歳半のベビ子の小さな体にはなかなか大きな負担だったようだ。
しかし、本人には「疲れた〜」などというような意識は全くないようでMAXではしゃいでしまう。
40度を超える熱が出ていても食欲旺盛で、ちょっと体調が上向くとすぐに「お外っ、プール!」などとせがんでくるのだ。
そんなこんなでこの2日間は病院に行ったり、買い物、家事手伝い、看病など全般をこなし、未だサーフィンはできない状況が続いている。 続きを読む…

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By the time Lee’s captured, he’s already mowed down at least a

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バリズム

寒いところにいると、自然と歩く速度は上がるし、頭の回転も速くなってくる。
テキパキ動かないと寒くて身が凍ってしまう。
体が動いているとつられるように頭も良く動く。
日本の冬は真夏のバリで暮らし始め、全体的にのんびりしてしまった僕にとってはいいリハビリになったようだ。

本日バリ島に戻ってきて、いきなりバリのリズム、略して『バリズム』の波に飲み込まれてしまった。
バリで思い切って新車を購入し、本日がその車の納車日だった。
ちゃんと持ってくるのかな〜、とやや不安に思っていたが、意外なほどすんなり希望していた時間の30分前に我が家にやってきた。
おお、やっぱり大きい買い物になると対応が違うな、などと感心していたのも束の間・・・

ナンバー付いてないし・・・

ナンバー付いてないし・・・


喜びつつその車を眺めていると何かが足りない気がした。
なんだ、この感じ。
なんか正規のものじゃない雰囲気。
良〜く見てみると・・・
なんと、ナンバープレートが付いていないじゃないか! 続きを読む…

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If team A bats first, team B’s goal is to score more runs than

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真冬から真夏へ

3週間の日本滞在を終え、本日バリに戻ります。
10月にバリ島に家族で訪れ、2ヶ月を過ごした後に今回の日本帰国。
羽を休め、しっかり準備をし、本日からのバリ行きが本格的バリ移住の第一歩となるのだ。

昨日の辻堂。小ぶりながらいい波でした!

昨日の辻堂。小ぶりながらいい波でした!


滞在中は真冬の厳しい寒さで海に入るのを少々ためらった。
波もコンスタントとは言えず、滞在中は4回しか海に入れなかった。
それでもやっぱりホームポイントでのサーフィンはリラックスできるし、心から楽しいと思えた。
帰ってくる場所があるシアワセを感じた。 続きを読む…

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乗り初め2013 @辻堂

「やっぱり正月は日本でしょ〜」
とイキッて日本に帰ってきたものの、大晦日はあっという間に寝てしまい、そのわりには初日の出も逃し、元旦から嫁とバトルしたりとまったく日本の伝統『お正月』を満喫せずに過ごしてしまった。
それでも食卓にはおせち料理があがり、食方面ではきっちり満喫できた。

コシ〜ハラですが遊べました!

コシ〜ハラですが遊べました!


そして本日3日にようやく2013年初サーフィン。
名付けて『乗り初め』。
昨日の大オンショアでサイズのある波を期待したが、一気にサイズダウンしてしまいまさに『湘南マジック』にハマってしまった。
まあそれでもなんとかコシ〜ハラくらいの波が申し訳程度にブレイクしており、軽く遊べた。
2013年も辻堂からスタートできたことはこの上ないシアワセだ。

そして皆さん、この場をお借りしまして、

明けましておめでとうございます。
今年も日本やらバリやらあちこちで波乗りすると思いますのであちこちからリポートしたいと思いますので何卒温かく見守ってください。
どうぞ宜しくお願いします。

有本圭

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