SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

好きなことを仕事にするとキツいのか?

机にかじりつく私有本圭

机にかじりつく私有本圭


怒濤の原稿締切地獄へと追い込まれている。
週明けまでに5本。
雑誌が3本にウェブが2本。
仕事というのは本当に不思議なもので一局集中的に塊でやってくる。
もうちょいバラけてきてくれると非常に助かるのだが、どうやらそうもいかないらしい。

そんな状況にも関わらずSWP(当サイト)の記事を書いていることに違和感を感じられる方もいらっしゃるだろうが、SWPに関しての執筆はある意味ではストレス解消になっていたりする。
まあ言っちゃえば何の責任もないし、評価する人もいない。
誤字脱字があっても恥をかくのはあくまでも自分で、誰かに咎められるようなこともない。
だからただ頭の中にあるものを吐き出すだけでいいのだ。

>> 次のページ >> 好きなことを仕事にするとキツいのか?

タグ: ,

日本人らしさ

こう見えても日本人です!

こう見えても日本人です!


日本人である。
こう見えてもどこをどう切っても日本人である。
バリニーズの友だちからは「ケイはもうバリ人ネ!」と言われる。
「そうよ、ぼく、もうバリ人ヨ」
と彼らに調子を合わせてしまうようなところもやはりきっちり日本人なのだ。

『日本人らしさ』という言葉を耳にしたことがある。
外国で暮らしているとその『らしさ』がよく見えてくる。
日本人らしさでまず最初に思い浮かぶのが『勤勉さ』だ。
これはもう完全に世界ぶっちぎりでトップであろう。
日本人は勤勉だ。
日本では中の下あたりの勤勉レベルであるボクでさえ海外に出ると余裕で先頭集団に入れる。
日本人の勤勉さは世界でもダントツなのである。
それからもう一つ言われるのは『和』を重んじる、という点。
これは裏を返すと個性を発揮しづらいというマイナス面も併せ持っているのであるが、相手を思いやる優しい気持ちが形になったともいえよう。
先日の日本滞在中に驚いたことがあった。
>> 次のページは >> 日本人の習慣に改めて驚いた!

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続報!悪夢が現実に?

芸能人サーファーは意外なほど多かった

芸能人サーファーは意外なほど多かった


ド天然嫁がサーフィンをしたいと言い出した。(昨日の記事はこちら
深田恭子さんのサーフィンフォトを目にしたときにそういうモードに入ってしまったようなのだ。

昨晩、仕事を終え書斎からリビングに降りると例のごとくダラシのない姿でソファに寝転がりながらネットサーフィンをしていた嫁。
何の気無しにPCの画面が目に入ってきた。
そこには我が目を疑いたくなるような現実が・・・
『サーフィンをやっている芸能人』というサイトが開かれていたのだ。
おいおい、マジで興味持ってるのかよ、と本格的に不安になってしまったボク。
「ねえ、ちょっと、ホントにサーフィンやろうとしてんの?」
「だってせっかくバリにいるんだもん。やろうかなと思って・・・」
「いいよ、やんなくて〜」
「なんでよ、いいじゃん」
「まあ、いいけど・・・」
どうやらほんの気まぐれで「サーフィンをやりたい」と言ったわけでもなさそうなのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 恐ろしい現実が・・・

タグ: ,

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12月16日 バリ島の波情報 〜湘南に軍配!?〜

クラマスはそこそこのコンディション

クラマスはそこそこのコンディション


ようやく少〜し波が上がってきているバリ島。
とはいえ向こう一週間の波予報をチェックしてみるとこのスウェルがMAXといったところのようだ。
当面小波が続いていきそうな気配がしている。

本日のクラマスはセットでムネくらい。
波はまあまあといったところ。
サイズもないのでサーファーの姿もまばらだ。
海で出会った鎌倉からやってきていたサーファーの方が「湘南のほうが波があるね」という衝撃発言があった。
どうも今年の湘南は素晴らしいスウェルに恵まれたようだ。
どうやらこの時期に限っては『バリ<湘南』という図式になってしまうようなのだ。

まあ、とりあえず週明けに2本の原稿締切を抱えているボクにとっては波がありすぎても困ってしまうのでこの状況をヨシとしよう。
そして続けざまに年明けには北マルクのボートトリップが待っている。
軽く腰痛も再発しているので体のコンディションを作りにフォーカスしつつ、ゆる〜くkeep surfingしていくというのが目下のスタイルになってきそうだ。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウント『Kei Arimoto』では友だち上限に達してしまったため『フォロー』という形で友だちを募集しています。サーファー、海好き、バリ好きの方であればフォローいただいた方はこちらからもフォローさせていただきます。ただし、こちらからフォローできる方は『フォローを許可する対象を[全員]に設定している人』のみですのでご了承ください。

タグ: , ,

The institute is seeking access to any emails between any Ball

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タグ: None

芸能人の威力

深キョンさん、ステキです!

深キョンさん、ステキです!


ド天然嫁が突然サーフィンを始めると言い出した。
ボクは即座に「はあああ?やめてくれる?」と言った。

ド天然嫁と結婚してよかったな、と思える項目の上位にはいつも「サーフィンをしない」という項目がランクインしている。
嫁がサーファーだったらややこしいぞ。
だって、ボクが毎朝サーフィンに出かけていくことに「羨ましいな〜」という感情が芽生えてくるわけじゃないですか。
それって相当にややこしい。
今までなら「はい、いってらっしゃい」となっていたものが「いいよね、けいくんはサーフィンばっかして」となりかねないのだ。

それにしてもなんでいきなりサーフィンをするなんて言い出したのだろう。
疑問に思ったボクは「なんで」と問いただしてみた。
すると・・・
「圭くんと同じ趣味を持とうかと思って」
と完全なるわかりやすいウソをつきやがった。
「あのなー、ウソを言うんじゃないよ、ウソを」
これまでの長い付き合いから、これはこの上なく見え透いたウソだということが瞬時にわかった。
「んなわけねえだろっ」と更に問いつめるてみると、
「だって、あの深キョンのサーフィンの写真見た?いかにもサーフィンしなそうな深キョンのサーフィン写真、あれ感動しちゃってさ。なんかカッコいいよなーと思って」
というオチだったのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 軽く落ちました

タグ: ,

季節への憧れ

クリスマス前の日本の夜は美しい

クリスマス前の日本の夜は美しい


日本は完全にクリスマス一色に染まっていた。
それが過ぎれば年末、お正月と続いていく。
一年のうちでもっともイベント続きの心躍る季節なのだ。

バリに戻ってくると季節というものを忘れてしまう。
日本の寒さなど一瞬で忘れてしまう。
ここ最近はとにかく気温が上昇して殺人的暑さが続いている。
日中はもうどこにも出歩きたくなくなってしまうほどだ。
今日も暑いし明日も暑い。
とにかくずっと暑い。
ただただ同じように暑い不毛な日々が繰り返されていくのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 季節、嗚呼、恋しや

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