SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

日本が世界に誇る『Wa Style』

仲間たちと歩いたインドネシア

仲間たちと歩いたインドネシア


昨日の記事、とある外国人サーファーから見た日本人サーファーのマナー評について大きな反響があった。(その記事はこちら

そこで『日本人のサーファー』についてここ数ヶ月に感じたことを書いてみたいと思う。
これはあくまでも主観的な話なのでどうかそのはご理解いただきながら読んでいただけたらと思うのです。

元来農耕民族である我々日本人は独特な価値観を育んできている。
我々日本人は『和』を重んじる国民性である。
自然と調和し、他者とも調和していくことがヨシとされる社会なのだ。
明日の天気を感じながら次に備えることをしてきた人たちだし、分け合いながら共に力を合わせて厳しい自然の中を生き抜いてきた人たちなのだと思うのだ。

日本最古の憲法である聖徳太子の十七条憲法の第一条に『和を以て貴しとなす』と説かれていたことからも、日本人が古来より精神面において『和』を大切にしてきた人々なのだと読み取ることができる。
『和』の精神を国民性として持ち合わせている日本人こそ、混沌とし始めている今の世界情勢に一石を投じる役目があるのではないかと思ったりもしてしまうのだ。
> 次のページ > ボクが出会った日本人サーファーの姿

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But my grandfather spent a large part of WWII in Poland

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ベビ子物語 vol41 〜バイリンガール化〜

プレスクールにて3歳のバースデイ

プレスクールにて3歳のバースデイ


1歳半でバリ島に移り、現在3歳半になった愛娘ベビ子。
彼女の人生の半分以上はバリ島で暮らしるということになってきている。
そうなってくるとほとんど日本人的感覚は端の方に追いやられ、バリ的というかインターナショナル的な感覚がすくすくと育ち始めているのだ。

彼女は1歳半からインターナショナルスクールに通っている。
授業など学校でのコミュニケーションは英語だ。
友だちはジョンにショーンにハイデンにマヤ。
否が応でも英語を話さなくてはならない環境だ。
とはいえ、家では日本語を使っているので3歳を過ぎるあたりまでは完全に日本語優位な状況であった。
しかしここ最近、日本語優位に陰りが見え始めているのだ。

夜の寝かしつけは基本的にボクが担当している。
『しまじろう』という子ども向けの絵本を読んでいたときのことである。
こんな感じの絵本だ。
しまじろう(トラ的な子ども)がゾウの子どもに物を借りようとしています。
しまじろうはゾウくんになんて言えばいいのかな〜?
という質問型の絵本を読んでやると、ベビ子は即答で「Can i borrow it?」とドヤ顔を向ける。
うん、まあ合ってるんだけどね。
日本語で質問しているわけだからオトーは日本語での答えを期待してたんだけどな・・・
気を取り直して「日本語では?」と聞き直してみると、ちょっと考え込んで「・・・。かーしーてっ」とやや自信がなさげな様子だ。
大丈夫か?ベビ子・・・
日本語は忘れてはならないのだぞ、という思いを抱きつつ先を読む。
>> 次のページは >> 英語優位化が進行していきそうな気配

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I think there was a fear that even with the police record she

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外から見た日本人サーファーの姿

小ぶりながら本日もいい波です!

小ぶりながら本日もいい波です!


先日、海から上がり、ワルン(軽食屋的な)でビールをすすっていたときのことである。
バリ島に20年住んでいるというオーストラリア人が何事かを熱く語っているのが耳に入ってきた。
何か軽く怒っている様子だった。
よく聞いてみるとサーフィンのマナーについて語っているようだった。

「まったくヨーロッパの奴らには腹が立つよ。云々くんぬん」
どうもヨーロッパのサーファーたちのマナーの悪さに怒っているようだった。
確かにボクの個人的な印象でもヨーロッパ人の一部のサーファーのマナーには?マークだ。
ヨーロッパとひとくくりにしてしまうのは少々乱暴なのだが、サーフィンのルールが浸透していない感が否めないのだ。
そのオーストラリア人からしてみると、とにかく一括りにヨーロッパのサーファーはまったくなってない!というご意見のようだった。
ボクはいつの間にか彼の話に惹きつけられていた。
次にやり玉に上がったのは南米のとある国のサーファーたちだった。
「あいつらはホントにどうしようもない」と始まったのでボクはクスクスと笑いながらその話の続きを聞いていた。
心のどこかで「そーだそーだー、言ったれー」という気分になっていた。
まあボクも生身の人間なのでいろいろと思うところはあったりするのはお許しいただきたい。
>> 次のページ >> 彼の『ジャパニーズ』に対する評価は??

タグ: ,

It embraces not just a detailed recreation of those five

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ベビ子物語 vol40 〜シアワセな人生を送るための贈る言葉〜

いつまでも幸せでいてほしいから

いつまでも幸せでいてほしいから


最愛の娘に伝え残したいと思うことはそう多くはない。
しかしこれだけは絶対的に何が何でも伝えなくてはならないことがある。
それは親の責任としてきっちり果たさなければならないのだ。

学校の成績などは正直どうでもいい。
いや、どうでもよくはないが、プライオリティはそう高くない。
学校で習う勉強は内容的にはどうでもいいことが多い。
ボク自身、学校で習ったことが社会に出て役立っていると実感できることはごく一部のことだ。
因数分解なんて社会に出てから役立った記憶はないし、化学記号なんてどこにも活用する場所がない。
ついでにいうと古文なんてほとんど読む機会がないし、漢文なんて見たこともない。
そういう意味ではあまり役に立つような学問ではないのだろうが、自分の苦手なことや好きでもないことを期限内に水準以上でやり通す、という訓練にはなっていたのかもしれない。
とまあ、この辺のことは学校の先生にお願いするとして、ボクが娘に伝えていきたいのは生きるために忘れてはならない大切なことだ。
>> 次のページ >> シアワセな人生を送るための贈る言葉

タグ: , ,

Not only will it (most likely) save you some money

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贅沢はステキだ!

まさにサーフレジェンド加藤さん

まさにサーフレジェンド加藤さん


ここ数回、波伝説の加藤社長とインドネシアを旅をさせてもらっている。
加藤さんは現在57歳の現役サーファーだ。
どのラウンドも誰より早く率先して海に入り、最後まで波を追っている。
今まで出会った先輩サーファーは、本当にいいコンディションの時にしか海に入らない方が多く、若かりし頃の自分はそんな姿に憧れを抱いたものであった。
しかし加藤さんはそんな方たちとは対極の姿勢を貫いているサーファーであった。
どんなにコンディションが悪くても率先して海に入る加藤さん。
ダメダメのボクなんかが海に入ることを躊躇していると「贅沢は敵だ!」という言葉を残してパドルアウトしていく。
いつの間にかボクも『加藤さんのようにいつまでもまっすぐサーフィンを愛することのできるサーファーでいれたらな』と思うようになった。
『そうだ、贅沢は敵だ!』と心の中で呟いて海に入るようになったのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 贅沢はステキだ!

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鮫襲撃から身を守る5つのこと

ホオジロザメは人食い鮫だ

ホオジロザメは人食い鮫だ


つい先日、アチェのサーフトリップに出ていたときのことである。
午前のサーフセッションを終え、のんびりとランチを取り、夕方のセッションに備えてまったりとした時間を過ごそうとしていた矢先のことであった。
先輩サーファーがiPhoneを見ながら目を丸くし、「ええええええっ」と声を上げた。
どうしたんですか?
一斉に旅のクルーたちの視線が彼に集まった。
でも先輩サーファーは声を発することができなかった。
iPhoneの画面に釘付けになって固まっていた。

彼の友人がオーストラリアで鮫に襲われて命を落としたのだという。
そのニュースはその前日にも我々の間で話題に上がっていたのだが、まさか自分の友人だとは思わなかったそうだ。
襲われてしまったサーファーは以前からオーストラリアで暮らしていた日本人のサーファーで、年齢は41歳だったという。
海外で暮らしているサーファーで、年齢もほぼ同じ。
人ごととは思えない事故だ。
いつ自分の身に降りかかってきても不思議ではない事故だ。
鮫の襲撃は世界各地で起こっている。
バリ島では今のところシャークアタックによる死亡例は報告されていないが、鮫は生息していることに間違いはない。
近年、命こそ落とさなかったが、鮫に襲われたという事故はバリ島でも起きている事実はあるのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 鮫襲撃のリスクを減らす5つのこと

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