SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

規則的な不規則生活

お昼寝から目を覚ますこんな風景が

お昼寝から目を覚ますこんな風景が


腰痛によりサーフィンを封印して5日目。
おかげさまでかなり回復してきている。
波があればもうサーフィンしちゃってもいいくらいなのだが、本日も波無しのバリ島なので休養にあてた。
しかしやはりなんとなく日中体を動かさないと全体的に調子が悪くなってきてしまう。
まず何が調子悪いかって、生活が乱れ不規則になってきていることだ。

1日目は20時に就寝。
2日目は3時に就寝。
3日目は20時に就寝。
そして4日目は3時に就寝。

まあ、ある意味では規則的な感じにはなっているのだが、こういうのを世間では規則的な生活とは言わないのだろう。
規則的な不規則とでもいおうか。
なんだかややこしいのだが、とにかく『寝過ぎ』→『眠れない』→『寝過ぎ』→『眠れない』というおかしなスパイラルにハマりつつある。

やはり日中、じっと書斎で仕事ばかりしていると体の機能が低下してくるようだ。
なんかその辺りを目的もなくブラブラ歩いてみるとか、プールで泳いでみるだとか、とにかく何かしら体を動かしたほうが良さそうだ。
中年おっちゃん仕様の腰痛体操ばかりしていてもなかなか夜すんなりと寝付くことができないのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 眠れぬ夜に待っているものは

タグ: ,

人と楽に接するボクの方法

みんなと過ごす夜も悪くない

みんなと過ごす夜も悪くない


そういやーこの状況って意外と初めてかもしれない。
一人で過ごすバリの夜。
家族、つまりボクにとっては妻と娘のことであるが、その家族が留守にしているバリの夜。
よく考えてみるとボクにとっては初めての経験かもしれない。
ワケあって今夜は妻と娘はシンガポールにいる。
だからボクはバリの家で一人で過ごしているのだ。

一人でいること自体は決してキライではない。
以前はむしろ一人でいるほうが好きだった。
旅はいつでも決まって一人旅であったし、サーフィンだって仲間と現地で待ち合わせしても行き帰りは一人で車を運転する事を好んでいた。
まあ、たぶんどちらかというとワガママな性格なのだろうし、勝手気ままにしていたいという性質が強かったのだろう。
若さゆえの不器用さもあり、周りに協調するより一人のほうが楽だったのだろうと思う。

いまはもうすっかり大人、というかオッチャンになってしまったのでその辺は上手くコントロールというか、無理せずに自分を楽に出すことができるようになっている。
だから人と一緒にいることは決して疲れることではなくなった。
それはつまりシンプルに表現すると、『別に嫌われたっていいやっ』という開き直りが根底にあるからなのかもれいない。
>> 次のページ >> 自然体こそが最高の自分

タグ: ,

11月28日 バリ島の波 〜追い風〜

セットでヒザ? ほとんどフラットです

セットでヒザ? ほとんどフラットです


いやー、本日のバリ島、本格的に波がないっ!
ああ、良かった良かった。
ありがたいありがたい。
腰痛でサーフィン休養中のボクにとっては非常にありがたい状況だ。

腰を痛めてからというもの、バリ島は全体的にサイズダウンしてくれて、珍しく小波コンディションが続いている。
当分この調子で波が無さそうな予報になっている。
なのでボクもそれに合わせて週明けあたりまでは心ゆくまで休養、という流れにしようと思っている。

腰の具合は徐々に回復しており、もし波があったらもういっちゃうかっ、というレベルまできている。
でもたいがいこれくらいの回復度で海に出てしまうと完治せずにずるずると痛みを引きずるパターンになりがちだ。
なのでこれはこれでいい機会、ということでじっくりじわじわ完治させてやろうという気になっているのだ。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウント『Kei Arimoto』では友だち上限に達してしまったため『フォロー』という形で友だちを募集しています。サーファー、海好き、バリ好きの方であればフォローいただいた方はこちらからもフォローさせていただきます。ただし、こちらからフォローできる方は『フォローを許可する対象を[全員]に設定している人』のみですのでご了承ください。

タグ: , ,

アカーンな体に・・・

まずは研究から

まずは研究から


自分の持ち物で何が大切かって?

それはね〜、『体』ですねっ。

車とか家とかそんなもんはどうでもいいのだ。
何より大切なのは体。
調子がいいときにはまっ先に『体』なんて発想はないかもしれないのだが、失って初めて気付くのが体の大切さなのだ。

ここ最近、体に対してルーズになっていた。
仕事が正念場を迎えており、体のケアを怠っていたのだ。
体は正直だ。
そんな邪険な扱いをしていたらすぐにガタがきてしまった。
以前はサーフィン前、サーフィン後、就寝前にストレッチなどをして体のケアをしていた。
しかしなんとなく心に余裕がなくなっていたのか、何もせずにドーーンっと海に入るようなことを続けていたらあっという間に腰痛が再発してしまったのだ。
まったくもって体は正直なのだ。
>> 次のページ >> 運動前にストレッチをしないほうがいいという説もあるが・・・

タグ: ,

‘Should I hold a wake?Standing around your pet’s grave can be a

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やっぱりバリがサイコー

3f前後のライテンダー

3f前後のライテンダー


ここ数日波がいい。
素晴らしい。
バリなんだから当たり前でしょーと思われるだろうが、それでもやっぱり素晴らしいのだ。

例のごとくバカの一つ覚えのようにエアポートリーフに通っている。
特に波に対するこだわりというものを持たないボクは友だちが温かく迎えてくれる居心地のいいポイントにどうしても足が向いてしまうのだ。
それにエアポートリーフは波もたいがい平均的にいつでもいい。
サイズが小さくてもレフトで十分遊べるし、サイズがあればライトも素晴らしい。
潮が引いても上げていてもどちらでもできるポイントもある。
だから風さえ合っていればたいがいいつでもいい波でサーフィンができるのだ。

バリを拠点にいろいろと旅をしているボクであるが、やっぱりナンダカンダといってもバリがいい。
まるっと1年間を考えてみても『波がない』なんてことはまずない。
風もどこかしらがオフショアだ。
でかすぎて出来ないというようなこともあまりない。
で、結論としてはバリがいいじゃん、ということになってしまうのだ。

ということは、波を求めて旅をする、というのは第一目的ではなくなってしまう。
まだ見ぬカルチャーやその土地の雰囲気、出会い、非日常・・・
そんなものを旅には求めてしまう。
だって、波はバリでいいじゃん、となってしまうから。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウント『Kei Arimoto』では友だち上限に達してしまったため『フォロー』という形で友だちを募集しています。サーファー、海好き、バリ好きの方であればフォローいただいた方はこちらからもフォローさせていただきます。ただし、こちらからフォローできる方は『フォローを許可する対象を[全員]に設定している人』のみですのでご了承ください。

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Gabby calls Dan a “dhead” after he makes an ill timed joke then

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どうやらカルマの法則はありそうだ

海外暮らしの寂しさはバリではありえない

海外暮らしの寂しさはバリではありえない


バリに移住する前に懸念していたことがあった。
それは海外で暮らすことで寂しさを味わうのではないかという漠然たる不安だった。
しかしそれは完全に杞憂であった。

バリ島はもう驚くほど日本人サーファーが多い。
昨日などはポイントは完全に日本人だらけであった。
3連休で多くの日本人がバリにやって来ていたのだ。
3連休で気軽に来れてしまうバリ島はとにかく日本人が多い。
確実に波があり、確実にいつでも夏で、確実に時差が1時間しかないという『確実性』が短期でしか休みが取れない日本人には人気の要因なのだろうと思う。

そういうことはあまり考えずにバリに移住してしまったボクであったが、おかげで寂しい思いは全くしていない。
むしろ友だちがあまりに頻繁にやってくるので仕事に手が付かないという悩みがあるほどだ。
その友だちの中でもっとも頻繁にやってくる幼なじみがまたもや来ている。
今年に入って4度目の訪バリだ。
ボクが帰国する都度日本でも会っているのでしょっちゅう顔を合わせている感覚だ。
>> 次のページ >> カルマの法則?

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