SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

12月2日 バリの波 〜復帰戦〜

たまのセットはこんな感じ

たまのセットはこんな感じ


腰痛による休養を余儀なくされてから1週間。
ようやく海へと戻ってくることができた。

休養期間中はありがたいことに波もなく、天気もグズグズであった。
こういうときに波があって天気もカーンと晴れていたりすると早めの復帰をはかり、さらにこっぴどく痛めてしまうというパターンも少なくないので非常にタイミングのいい腰痛であった。
日々、波ないよ情報が入ってくるたびに内心では「よーしよしよし」と喜んでいたのだ。

そんなこんなで、本日も波は小さいバリ島なのであるが、なんとか遊べるポイントもあった。
最大セットでカタくらい。
途中で目を開けることすらできないほどの大スコールに見舞われたことでポイントはガラ空き状態になってくれた。
ある意味ラッキーだ。
瞬間的にはほぼ貸し切り状態になってくれた。
しかもいい具合でホレてバレルの波も現れるようになった。
リハビリサーフィンにはもってこいなコンディションであった。

思いのほか腰は回復しており、セッションの後半には結構調子に乗って思いっきりサーフィンすることができた。
やっぱりサーフィンはいいわ。
精神的にいい。
波立っていた心が静まってくる感じがする。

この休養期間中にいろいろと体のことを調べてわかってきたこともあったので、しっかりケアしつつKeep Surfingしていきたいと思う。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウント『Kei Arimoto』では友だち上限に達してしまったため『フォロー』という形で友だちを募集しています。サーファー、海好き、バリ好きの方であればフォローいただいた方はこちらからもフォローさせていただきます。ただし、こちらからフォローできる方は『フォローを許可する対象を[全員]に設定している人』のみですのでご了承ください。

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Avoid any type of rigid “let her cry it out” sleep training

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2017年問題

いとうまさし社長

いとうまさし社長


ボクにはいとうまさしというビジネスパートナーがいる。
ちょっと前までバリ島で暮らしていたが今は日本にいる。
パレット株式会社というなんだかちょっと可愛らしい名前の会社を2人で運営しているのだ。

今週日本に帰国する予定があるのだが、その際には当然会うことになっている。
なにしろ役員2人が数ヶ月ぶりに顔を合わせるチャンスなのであるから、それを逃すわけにはいかないのだ。

このいとうまさしという男、ルーズなのかきっちりしているのかよくわからない掴みどころのない男なのであるが、常になんとなくちょっと先のことを考えている。
例えば2020年にはどうなっていたいか、などという果てしない質問をしてきたりするのだ。
ボクの場合、明日の予定はボンヤリ決まっていても明後日になるともうほとんど暗闇だ。
それが6年後ともなると、もうどこで何をしているのか皆目検討がつかない。
先のことはほとんど見えないというのがこれまでのボク生き方なのである。

このように、いとうまさしという男はだいたいいつも何か先のことをあれこれと考えている男なのである。
しかしこの男のスゴイところは、2〜3年前に「2〜3年先はこうなっている」という予測をほぼ寸分狂いなく達成しているという点であろう。
それに引き換え、ボクの場合はまったく場当たり的な生き方に終始しているので、2〜3年先のゴールは常に変動していくのでどうも当初設定した目的地にはうまく辿り着けていないというダメ人間流され型スタイルを貫いていってしまっている。

で、今回会うにあたって、「2017年にどうなっていたいか?」というドーンとした命題が出されてしまった。
なぜ2016年や2018年ではないのかというはっきりとした理由はわからないが、とにかく2017年なのである。
きっと彼には明確な理由があって2017年なのであろう。

>> 次のページ >> 2017年問題

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奇跡的な不運

儚いものよ電気機器

儚いものよ電気機器


もうホントにふざけるな〜〜〜〜〜〜〜、と叫びたい。
オレが何をした?
何かしたのか??
嫁と娘がシンガポールに行っている間、いつも止められているマックで2食連続でダブルチーズバーガーを食ったのがそんなにいけないことだったのか?
他に何かしたっけか?
してねーよな。
ちきしょーーーーー。

おっと、申し訳ない。
完全に乱れてしまった。
でも聞いてください。
乱れるのも無理はないと思えるほどありえない奇跡的に不運な話なのです。

昨晩の話である。
1月号のNALUの原稿締め切りが本日の15時に迫っていた。
まあこういうことをいつもギリギリにやるからいけないのかもしれないが、ギリギリでしかやれないという正しい理由もあるにはあるのだ。
まあその辺はいろいろと言い訳がましくなるのでいいとして、とにかく本日の15時を目指してほぼ原稿完成というところまでこぎつけていた。
おっしゃ、ほぼOKだな、ちょっくらDVDでも見ながらストレッチでもするかっ、とDVDをPCに入れたのが事の発端だった。
DVDを見ながら20分ほど腰痛回復のためのストレッチなどをし、パソコンを机に戻し「さあ、仕上げをするかっ」と椅子に腰をおろしたときのことである。
突然パソコンの画面がプチっ、となんとも情けない音とともに消えてしまったのだ。
あれ〜、ど〜した〜。
まさかね〜。
電源を入れてみる。
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