SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

” That is, “leverage” is using shifts and motion to gain a

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レンボガン島ダイバー遭難事故の続報

美しいレンボガン島

美しいレンボガン島


今年の2月14日、7名のダイバーを乗せた船がボクが暮らすサヌールを出港した。
ボクはダイビングのことは詳しくないが、レンボガン周辺の潮流が速いことは知っている。
潮が引いてくる時間帯は肉眼でもはっきりわかるくらい海が川のように流れているのを目にしたことがある。
「こりゃあ流されたら大変だよね」
などと友人と話したことを覚えている。

事故が起きた日、ボクもレンボガン島の対岸の海でサーフィンをしていた。
ちょうど海から上がりランチをとっていたときのこと。
とてつもなく激しい雨と暴風が襲ってきた。
バリでスコールが起こることは珍しいことではない。
でも暴風を伴うことはめったにない。
その日は台風直撃のような暴風雨に見舞われたのだ。
しかし1時間ほどで風雨の威力は弱まったように記憶している。

>> 次のページ >> 事故の責任は?

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In exchange, Daley threw in a framed picture of Kane

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ロンボク島の旅@NALU

NALU magazine

NALU magazine


一旦CM入りま〜す。
というわけでちょっと今回はボクが寄稿した記事について軽く宣伝させていただきます。
今書店で並んでいる『NALU』に宮崎のジイジこと藤井辰緒プロ、空飛ぶ52歳こと野田雅生プロとバリ在住水中写真師ノブさんと歩いたロンボク島の旅が掲載されております。
おまけでボクのライディング写真もちゃっかり載っています。

この島は近年開発が進み、島として第2のバリを目指しているそうなのです。
観光客やサーファーを積極的に誘致しており、海は想像以上に混雑しているという現実もありました。
しかし、やはりこの島には今でもワイルドな自然とパーフェクトな波がボクらを待っていたのでした。
続きを読む…

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波乗りふんわり人生論

バリ島イーストコーストにはシークレットスポットがある。
スウェルは入りづらいが一旦サイズアップすると長距離右側波が現れる。
そこを目指して車を走らせたことが本日の幸運の始まりだった。
2時間近いドライブのすえ期待のシークレットスポット・・・
まさかの極小右側波。
セットでコシ。
アカーン。
せっかくのロングドライブが身を結ばなかった瞬間だった。
サーフィンをしているとこの手の不運がちょくちょく訪れる。
せっかく苦労して足を運んでも期待した波に出会えないようなことはわりと頻繁にあるのだ。

人はまばら。波は良さそう!

人はまばら。波は良さそう!


結局そこでのサーフィンは諦めていつものホームポイントへと戻ることになった。
なんとなくツイテいない空気が充満した。
まあ、サーフィンは自然相手なので仕方がない。
そう言い聞かせながらまたまた2時間近くかけていつものポイントへ。
海に入りたい症候群になっていたので波チェックもそこそこにサーフボードを抱えてカヌーに乗り込んだ。
そのころにはお昼をまわってしまっていた。
ポイントが近づいてくると波がブレイクしていたので胸をなでおろした。
なんとかムネ〜カタくらいはありそうだった。
サーファーの姿もパラパラ。
まあまあのコンディションだった。
>> 次のページ >> サーフィンは人生に通ずる?

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実はバリ在住者の中で囁かれていること

日本人の姿が目立つ

日本人の姿が目立つ


7月の初旬である。
ボクの衰弱しきった記憶を辿って昨年のこの時期を思い返してみると日本人サーファーの姿が極端に少なくなっていた印象がある。
しかし今年この時期はなぜだか日本人サーファーが多い。
好景気なのか?
それとも有給休暇を取りやすい雰囲気になってきているのか。
サーファーが増えてきているのか。
理由はよくわからない。
でもとにかくやたらと日本人が多い。

これはバリ島在住者にとっては嬉しいことだ。
この島にやってきたころには「なんだかちょっと日本人が多いのは嫌だな〜」なんて思っていたころもあったが、今となっては日本人が来なくなってしまうことほうがよっぽど寂しいし耐え難いことだ。
どしどし来てほしいとすら思っているのだ。

バリにやって来ている日本人は海外に出ているからなのか、たいがい心がオープンになっている。
海で声をかけてみると自然な会話が始まることもしばしばだ。
だからわりとすんなりと友だちになれてしまう。
バリで暮らし始めて最も良かったと思うことは日本人サーファーとのいい出会いに恵まれているという点だ。
ただ、残念なことにマナーの悪い日本人サーファーの姿を見かけることも少なくない。
実はバリ在住者の中では「日本人のサーファーが一番マナーが悪いのではないか」ということが囁かれているのだ。
主な理由は2つ。
1、ガッツク。
2、前乗りする

>> 次のページ >> 日本人サーファー代表として

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事故の教訓

混雑したポイントには危険が潜む

混雑したポイントには危険が潜む


とても残念なお知らせだ。
鎌倉で起きたSUPとサーファーとの衝突事故で意識不明の重体だったサーファーの方が亡くなられた。
最悪の結果となってしまった。
同じサーファーとして、海を愛する者として、本当に残念だ。
ボクの友人の友人だったりしたのでとても他人事とは思えない。
まずはここで若くして亡くなってしまったサーファーの方のご冥福をお祈りいたいと思う。

今回の事故で尊い1人の命が失われてしまった。
その方の命を無駄にしないためにも我々サーファーはこの事実と向き合っていかなくてはならない。
このような痛ましい事故が2度と起こらないように各人が意識を持たなくてはならない。

今朝のサーフセッションでこんなことがあった。
場所はエアポートリーフ。
波のサイズはセットで3f。
ピークではピリピリしたムードは一切なく、サーファーたちの表情は明るかった。
リラックスしてサーフィンを楽しめるコンディションだったのだ。

ボクはアウトでセットを待っていた。
大きめのウネリがピークに向かって入ってきた。
ボクは周りのサーファーの位置を確認し、その波がボクが乗るべき波だと確信しパドルに力を込めた。
テイクオフの瞬間に目に飛び込んできた波のショルダーは長く先まで続いていた。
素晴らしい波だった。
速いセクションを浅めのボトムターンで抜けながら加速していった。
するとインサイドで1人のサーファーがパドルをしているのが目に入ってきた。
カリフォルニアからやってきていたキッズサーファーだった。
ボクがライドしている大きめの波から逃げるようにショルダー側へと必死にパドルしていた。
それはちょうどボクがライディングしていく方向とかぶってしまっていた。
完全にボクのライディングのライン上に入ってしまっていたのだ。
ボードがかなり加速していたため無理に彼を避けようと板を返すとバランスを崩しかねなかったのでセーフティファーストでそのままプルアウトをした。

>> 次のページ >> こういうシチュエーションでの行動は・・・

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“I think we’ll be playing Germany

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悲劇は起きてしまった

今朝のクタビーチ

今朝のクタビーチ


海外生活者にとってfacebookは貴重な情報源になる。
ほとんどの『友だち』はサーファーであるため、波の状況は手に取るようにわかる。
まったく便利な時代になった。
ボクがサーフィンを始めたころは「とりあえず海に行ってみる」というやり方だった。
天気図で波を予想する、なんていう発想すらなかった。
電車で湘南に通っていた高校時代のボクらにとっては波のアルナシは完全に運任せだったのだ。 続きを読む…

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久々にすんぞ〜

まずはビーチでリハビリ

まずはビーチでリハビリ


日本に3週間滞在した。
ということは3週間サーフィンをしなかったということになる。
今回の日本滞在ではいろいろと収穫があったがその中の一つが「サーフィンがしたい!」と思えたことだ。 続きを読む…

タグ: ,

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