SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

オヤジの強み

PCにむかうオヤジ有本圭

PCにむかうオヤジ有本圭


年を重ねるといろいろと体に変化が表れる。

落ちてゆく体力。
薄くなる頭頂部。
耳たぶやヒジなどよくわからないところから生えてくるムダ毛。
濃くなるシワ。
たるんでくる腹。
忍び寄る老眼。
威力を増す加齢臭。

こんなふうに改めて挙げてみると残念な側面ばかりが目立ってしまう。
でも実はプラスの変化だってあるにはある。
若い頃できなかったことが難なくできるようになるようなこともある。
ボクにとってその代表格は『早起き』だ。

若かりし頃、翌朝早く起きなくてはならないというだけで憂鬱になっていた。
地獄の苦しみのなかフラフラでベッドから這い上がる。
辛いことこの上ない。
できればベッドで暮らしたいとさえ思った。
若い頃の眠気とは強烈なのだ。
>> 次のページ >> オヤジの強みを活かして

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トホホの強制送還

なんだかダンパーチック

なんだかダンパーチック


ビーチブレイクでバレルになるってのは本当に楽しい。
こけてもリーフでガリッと体を傷つけるリスクがない。
そうなってくるとイケイケドンドンで攻められる。
おじさんのボクはそれなりに守りに入っているので浅いリーフでは守備的布陣になりがちだ。
でもビーチなら超攻撃的布陣で全員攻撃に打ってでれるのだ。

「最近潮が引いているときはグリグリだよ」
という情報を聞きつけていつもよりアラームの時間を1時間早めてビーチに向かった。
波チェックをしてちょっとガックリ。
どう見てもただのダンパーなのだ。
おい〜〜〜。
せっかく早起きしたのになんじゃいこりゃ〜。
おまけに早朝なので肌寒い。
どうする?
このまま帰ってベッドに潜りこむか?
ちょっと迷ったが白人さんが1本キレた波に乗ってロングライドしている姿を確認して海に入ることを英断を下した。

1本でもまともに乗れりゃーいいや、と開き直っていたボク。
ピークに向かう途中目に入ってくる波はやはりダンパーばかり。
アカ〜ン。
でも幻のセットが入ればさっきのあいつみたいに・・・
一里の望みにかけてポジショニングした。

さっきいい波をゲットした白人サーファーのそばにするりと近寄った。
きっと彼が今のコンディションを最も把握しているだろうから。
彼よりちょっとインサイドのショルダー寄りでサーフボードにまたがった。
「なんだコイツ、邪魔だな」
という嫌な目で見られたがそんなの無視無視。
せっかく早起きして海に入っているんだから貸し切りで気持ちよくサーフしたいという気持ちはわかるが、ボクだっていい波に乗りたい。
アンタがいい波乗ったからいけんのんよ、と思いつつそんな視線には気付かないフリをしてしら〜っとその場で波を待った。
>> 次のページ >> トホホの強制送還

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サーフィンと向き合う

Photo by Ken-G

Photo by Ken-G


20年以上もサーフィンばかりしていると飽きてしまう時期がやってくる。
そういう時期というのは得てしてサーフィンが伸び悩んでいる時期と重なる。
今のボクがそんな状況だ。

42歳にしてサーフィンが伸び悩んでいる?
いや、そもそもこれから先伸びることがあるのだろうか。
もう下り坂一方なのではなかろうか。
そんな疑心暗鬼に苛まれてしまう。

とにかく伸びに伸びた20代。
30代は仕事に勤しんでいたのでサーフィンが伸びたという感覚はあまりない。
40代に突入し、再びサーフィン中心の生活を手に入れた。
でも残念なことに20代のころのようにグングンとサーフィンが上達してくれるわけではない。
それどころかちょっと手を抜き始めるとすぐにパフォーマンスが落ちてしまう。
そしてその落ち分を取り返すのに数ヶ月かかってしまうようなことさえあるのだ。
>> 次のページ >> サーフィンを楽しみ続けるために

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見知らぬ人の記念写真

ビーチは他島の人々で埋め尽くされる

ビーチは他島の人々で埋め尽くされる


バリはヒンドゥーの島である。
でも実はインドネシアの多くの島々はイスラム教が主宗教だ。
ようするにインドネシアのおいてはバリがレアな島なのだ。

イスラム教では1年に1度『ラマダーン』という断食が行われる。
日の出から日没まで一切の飲食が禁じられる。
しかもこれが1ヶ月間も続くのだ。
イスラム教徒のボクの友人は断食には慣れているようで空腹に苛まれるようなことなどほとんどないそうだ。
とはいえそんなことを言いつつも結構体調を崩したりしている。
仕事の効率も少々落ちているようだ。
なんとなく注意散漫、集中力の欠如の傾向が見受けられる。
常夏のバリのおいて日中に飲食ができない、というのはなかなか厳しい戦いなのであろう。
体力的にも精神的にも結構キツいんだろうな、ということは容易に想像がつく。

そんな苦しみの1ヶ月が昨日解けた。
我慢の後に待っているのは解放だ。
友人に電話してみたところ「いやー、もう朝からずっと食べたり飲んだりしてますよ。1日で太りました〜」だそうだ。
やっぱり我慢してたんだな。
イスラムの人々はこの後8月中旬あたりまで長い休暇に入る。
この時期にはインドネシア国内の他島からバリ島に移り住んでいる人たちは里帰りする。
普段なら渋滞するような時間帯があっけないほど空いていたりする。
その分、バーケーションで他島の人たちがバリ島に押し寄せてくるのでクタの街中などは激しい渋滞でピタッと車が止まってしまうこともしばしば。
いいんだか悪いんだか良くわからないが、何となく島全体がザワザワして落ちつかない感じがする。

>> 次のページ >> まるで芸能人気取り?

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ベビ子物語vol32  〜サーファーへの道(悪だくみ)〜

波と追いかけっこするベビ子

波と追いかけっこするベビ子


娘をサーファーにするために日々努力を惜しまないボク。
果たしてこの努力は身を結ぶのでしょうか。
無理矢理サーフィンをさせるのは自分のポリシーに反するので、とにかく気付かれないようにそーっとそーっとそっちの方向に仕向けていくしかない。
ずるい大人といわれてもいい。
卑怯者と罵られてもいい。
打算的と軽蔑されたってかまわない。
あくまでもベビ子本人の意志で「サーフィンしたい!」と言わせるのが目下の目標なのである。

その先に何が待っているのか。
それを想像すると顔が勝手にニヤケてしまう。
ベビ子がサーフィンにハマってくれれば当然担当はボクということになる。
嫁はサーフィンに興味すらないのだ。
そこはもう完全にボクの出る幕となるわけだ。
そうなってくるとサーフィンをしたがる娘を海に連れていかなくてはならなくなってくる。
「ああもう、大変だ大変だ」などと愚痴をこぼしつつせっせと海に連れていくわけですよ。
そんでもって一緒に海に入って「ほれ、この波。パドルパドル。いけいけー! おおおお〜〜、いいぞベビ子〜〜」などと喜びたいわけなのです。
もうここまでくると完全に夢見るオッサン。
子どもに自分の夢を押し付けてしまう典型的な痛い親となりつつあるのだ。
>> 次のページ >> サーフィンに興味を持たせる悪だくみ

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常夏の冬? 

日に日に水温も下がってます

日に日に水温も下がってます


乾いた風がヤシの木を揺らす。
心地よい空気が眠気を誘う。
まだ太陽が高い位置にあるにも関わらずベッドに吸い込まれてしまう。
バリ島は今、1年でもっとも過ごしやすい季節を迎えている。 続きを読む…

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Courtesy of Julie Mahloch – Continue Reading BelowPhoto: Courtesy of Julie MahlochWhat does it take to create a successful start-up? “Passion,” said Julie Mahloch, the founder of Bloom, a social networking site dedicated to beauty, and the winner of the Hearst Digital Media entrepreneurs panel. The event took place last Tuesday as part of Social Media Week NYC and gave four panelists the opportunity to pitch their new businesses to accomplished industry insiders. Aliza Licht, senior VP of global communications at DKNY, Drake Martinet, social editor at NowThis News, and ELLE.com’s very own executive editor 1:1 quality prada replica , Amina Akhtar, assessed which new products are successful in the digital marketplace.The other contestants included Kendall Herbst, whose site, StyleUp, sends subscribers a daily email with an outfit that matches the weather report. PlayAPI, a tool co-founded by Philip Bjerknes, allows users to market their products by building interactive gaming apps; and Shopcade, represented by Jennifer Yassen, enables users to collect their favorite looks and compete with one another to receive exclusive deals. At the panel, it was decided that Mahloch’s site provided an interactive experience that had been missing from the online beauty market. Bloom allows users to post pictures of their favorite makeup looks, and then buy the product or find local stylists who can create the look. Each user is also automatically connected with other people who have similar beauty concerns, creating a forum for nearly every personalized grooming need. ELLE.com caught up with Mahloch about Bloom’s start-up success story:ELLE: What strategy did you present to make your brand competitive?Julie Mahloch: Women love to share about beauty, showcase looks, and see what other women are doing. Bloom pulls that all together through photo sharing. Beauty professionals are also using it as a platform to create digital portfolios to inspire their own clients. I think that is what truly set Bloom apart from the other panelists. – Continue Reading BelowELLE: What makes Bloom unique from other beauty sites?JM: Bloom connects the dots for the end user. We have over 700 beauty brands and over 60 mihalis.de ,000 products, and each product can be tagged to any look. With one click you can literally be connected to purchase that product online or to be directed to a nearby salon or store. People today are constantly looking to save time and not be left hanging.ELLE: How did Bloom first come to be?JM: I already started two companies and have been involved in the Internet for the past 16 years. I was turning 40, and I was really getting into beauty, but I just couldn’t believe how overwhelming and complicated it was. My consumer hat was frustrated. I need to see stuff visually, just seeing a bottle or an eye shadow pallete isn’t enough to put me over the edge. Women consumers want to learn about beauty, they want to talk about beauty, there is all this content. I wanted to solve that problem. That’s how Bloom was born.ELLE: What is essential when building a start-up?JM: The most important thing is that the product is resonating with your customer. Bloom has been able to really grow in a viral and organic way because it struck a nerve with beauty consumers, as well as professionals.ELLE: What is the mission behind Bloom?JM: The definition of the word “bloom,” if you go to Merriam-Webster, it is to achieve your most beautiful state. I thought that was the prefect name for what we are trying to accomplish. ELLE: What aspect of the company are you most excited about right now?JM: Having an app is critical because people want to be on their mobile devices. Bloom’s mobile app is becoming very popular both for the consumer as well as the beauty stylists, because they don’t sit behind the computer every day; they are standing behind their chairs. At the salon, they can pull up their bloom app and click on long hair, short hair, curly hair, straight hair, or take [a client] to their look book on their personal portfolio, and show the client really amazing looks. It has made that process really creative for the consumer. ELLE: What are your future aspirations for Bloom?
JM: We want to be known as the social beauty network. We really want to be the place women can come and be inspired and find that look and shop that look as well.Read the latest breaking beauty news.

Bloom Wins Hearst Digital Media Entrepreneur Start-Up Challenge – Julie Mahloch Interview

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貸し切り天国@ On The Board 〜Red Island (赤島)〜

只今発売中のOn The Board

只今発売中のOn The Board

イーストジャワに貸し切りサーフパラダイスがあるぞ!という噂を聞きつけた。
『貸し切り』というワードにするどく反応した。
今のこの時代、『貸し切り』でサーフィンできることに高い価値がある。
ボクらはバリ島からその噂のRed Islandに行ってみることにしたのだ。

この旅には鵠沼の古い友人、榎本信介プロと彼のサーフボードブランド『Edna』のライダー齊藤久元プロ、この旅をサポートしてくれた旅行会社OMツアーの方、バリ在住水中写真家ノブさんといった面々が参加していた。
約半日かけてのロングドライブも移ろいでいくインドネシアの風景を前に退屈することはなかった。
季節外れのスコールに打たれながらも目的地であるRed Islandに無事辿りついた。 続きを読む…

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© 2010 SWP | サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン. All Rights Reserved.

出欠管理・スケジュール管理に『サークルスクエア』

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