SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

ベビ子物語 vol7  完全勝利?

ベビ子の気持ちをボクのほうにグイッと引き寄せるチャンスがきた。(前回はこちら
いつやるの?
いまでしょ〜、
ふるっ、

というわけで、現在ガッチリとベビ子のハートを掴んでいるド天然嫁と、あろうことかあのベビ子がわりと大きめのケンカをしたという情報でボクはにわかに色めき立った。
昼寝中のベビ子が起きたときにいきなり「オトーっ」となっていることに胸を膨らました。
ボクはベビ子が起きるのをひたすらまった。
ひたすら、といってもボクの部屋のベットで寝ていたので雑誌でも読みながらスタンバッていた。
まあ全体的にチャンスが到来していたということだ。

>> 次のページは? >> ベビ子が目を覚ます!さてどっちだ!?

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ベビ子物語 vol6 しめしめ

しめしめだ。
思わず心の中でほくそ笑みつつド天然嫁の話に耳を傾けてた。

いつものごとくユル〜い感じの波乗りから帰宅するとどうも嫁の機嫌が悪いようだった。
状況から考えるとベビ子は2Fで昼寝をしているらしい。
ミネラルウォーターをグビ〜ッと飲みつつ嫁に声をかけた。

「今日ベビ子どうだった?」

今では2人の共通話題はベビ子のことがダントツなのだ

「もお〜、ベビ子機嫌が悪くて大変だったよ〜。あまりに機嫌が悪くてベビ子とずっとケンカしてたもん」

とややイカッた顔で眉間にシワをよせた。 続きを読む…

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Never ignore professional medical advice in seeking treatment

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Psychohistory is another word Asimov invented that is now a

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In “Jeepers Creepers, Where is Peepers,” the transforming

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サーフィン雑誌の行方

消えていく雑誌も数知れず

消えていく雑誌も数知れず


いま、仕事柄サーフィン誌に触れる機会が多い。
しかし、それらは決して買っているわけではなく、出版社から献本されているものだ。

ボクもサーフィンを始めたころはよくサーフィン誌を購入して愛読していた。
しかし、いつのころからか立ち読みをすることはあっても購入するには至らなくなってしまっていた。
今現在、ライターとして記事を寄稿させてもらっているので再びサーフィン誌に興味が向いているが、もしあのまま一読者であったら今のようにサーフィン誌に再び興味が戻っていたのかということは大いに疑問だ。
一度離れてしまった興味は余程のことでもない限りは戻らないものだと思うのだ。

読者時代、どうして興味を失ってしまったのだろうか。
それをもう一度思い返してみた。

まず、そもそも論としてそもそもサーフィンは見るよりもやるほうが断然に面白い、という意識が働いたのではないか。
人のカッコいいサーフィンの写真を見ているよりも、自分が海に入っているほうが楽しい。
なんとなく写真に見飽きて、雑誌からは離れていった、ということは考えられる。

もう一つはマンネリ化を感じた、ということではなかろうか。
同じ雑誌を定期購読していると3年目あたりから、おや?これ以前も同じようなことやってたな〜、という企画がちょいちょい現れ始めた。
そうなってくると、もう買わないでもいいかな、立ち読みでいいかな、というムードになっていってしまう。

そしてボクは意外とこれが大きかった気がするのだが、サーフィンに関する知識欲が失われた、ということだった。
サーフィンのことを知るには最終的には海に出るしかない。
そして波の乗るしかない、と思ってしまっていた。
サーフィン誌からインスパイアされることが少なくなってしまっていたのだ。

日本のサーフィン誌はどんどん減っていっているのが現状だ。
一世を風靡した『Surfing world』や『Surf 1st』などの人気誌が姿を消してしまった。
サーフィン業界の低迷により広告が入りづらくなったのも要因の一つだろう。
とにかくサーフィン誌をとりまく環境は厳しいのだ。

しかし、キビシイキビシイと騒いだところで何が好転するわけではない。
読者を飽きさせないような企画を打ち出していかないといけないのだな〜とボンヤリ海を眺めながら考えたりするのであった。

(有本圭)
※facebookアカウントのある方、有本圭(kei arimoto)にて友達リクエスト募集中です!
良かったらリクエストしてください。
サーファー、バリ好き、海好きの方は大歓迎ですよ!!

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ベビ子物語 vol5  覇権争い

ママと一緒だと嬉しそう・・・

ママと一緒だと嬉しそう・・・


だから家を空けるのイヤだったんだよ。

たった1週間、やむなく仕事で日本に帰国した際に家を空けた。
1週間の代償は想像以上に大きかった。
たかが1週間。
されど1週間。

出発前は確かに『オトーっ子』だったはずのベビ子が日本から戻ると完全に『ママっ子』へと寝返ってしまったのだ。
ここ数日、なんとか覇権を取り戻そうと奮闘しているのだが、どうしても最終的にはママの元へと戻りたがる。
お風呂に入る時も「ママがいい〜」。
寝る時も「ママは?」
起きた瞬間から『ママ〜」と言い出す始末。 続きを読む…

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たまに早起きすると・・・

夜明けとともに海に出るフィッシャーマン

夜明けとともに海に出るフィッシャーマン


普段、基本的には目覚ましをかけずに自然に目を覚ます。
たいがい愛娘ベビ子に起こされて目を覚ますことが多い。
ベビ子と一緒に目を覚ますとボクのタスクは一気に増える。
まずは汗でびっしょりのベビ子をシャワーで洗い流す。
朝食を一緒にとり、プレスクールに行くまでの空き時間で2人でぶらぶらと散歩に出かける。
そうこうしているうちに9時くらいになり、そこからようやく海に出かける、というのがボクのパターンなのだ。

しかし、そのパターンはここ数日崩れている。
友人のMiki Mosolがいやに張り切っているのだ。
今日も朝一の電話は4時半。
ん? まだ夜? と寝ぼけているボクを叩き起こし、夜明け前の漆黒の闇の中、車を走らせて海に向かった。 続きを読む…

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It is caused by a bacterial infection called Pasteurella

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バリズム

「明日は早起きしてサーフィンしよっか」

昨日、あまりに波が良かったのでちょっとハリキッテみた。
でも、たいがいこんなときは翌朝になると何事もなかったかのように通常通り7時前くらいに目を覚まし、風などをみてからいつも通りに海にでかけることが多い。

本日もいい波でした〜

本日もいい波でした〜


でも今日は違った。
バリニーズの友人であるMiki Mosolから5時半過ぎに電話が入った。
昨日の波がよっぽど気に入ったらしい。
ボクもさっと寝床から抜け出し海に向かった。 続きを読む…

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