SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

SWP | 365日、海! サーフィンと海遊びのブログマガジン

But you have done your bit entertained the world

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Like most families, their bond over the years might’ve

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バリの中でも一級品

本日のクラマス

本日のクラマス


サイズはほどほどだがパキッとキレた素晴らしいブレイクを見せてくれたクラマス。
JPSA(日本プロサーフィン連盟)の初戦が開催されることでも日本人にとっては馴染み深いポイントである。

1年半バリ島で暮らしながら様々なポイントでサーフィンをしてきたが、やはりクラマスのの波はバリ島の中でも超一級品だ。
ここに勝るライトのポイントはそうそうない。
しかもクラマスのスゴイところはそんなブレイクがかなりコンスタントにブレイクしていることだ。 続きを読む…

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ON THE BOARD はじめました。

ON THE BOARD はじめました。

ON THE BOARD はじめました。


ちょいと宣伝です。
たまになのでお許しください。

ロングボード雑誌『ON THE BOARD』でお仕事をさせていただきました。
とりあえず4月号NO91からLetters from BALIという4回に渡る連載をさせていただくことになったのです。 続きを読む…

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完全貸し切りサーフィン

波のクオリティは高い!

波のクオリティは高い!


バリ島は全体的にスモールコンディションだ。
とはいってもムネ〜くらいはある。
でもこのサイズだとバリニーズ的には「ナミナイネ〜」とバッサリ切られてしまうのだ。 続きを読む…

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ベビ子物語 vol 21 サーファーへの道

ほ〜ら、波きたでしょ?

ほ〜ら、波きたでしょ?


昨日の投稿に続いていくのだが、一応今回は『ベビ子物語』として書く事にした。(昨日はこちら
なぜなら、将来もしボクが当サイトSWPを読み返すとするならば、真っ先に読むであろうカテゴリーが『ベビ子物語』だからだ。
なので、このコーナーの読者は未来のボクなのだ。
そういうわけなので、『ベビ子物語』に関しては誰に気兼ねなく思う存分親バカぶりを発揮する運びとなっているわけなのである。

ベビ子にサーフィンの素晴らしさをわかってもらいたい、できれば将来サーファーとして海を愛する人間になってもらいたい、という一心でまずはサーファーとしてのファーストステップを踏むことにした。

ボクがまず彼女に知ってほしいことは『波と遊ぶのは楽しい!』ということだ。
ボクが子どもだったころ、夏の遊びといえば海で波と遊ぶことだった。
ウキワで必死に波に乗ってみたり、波が来たらタイミングを合わせて潜ってみたり、波打ち際に山を作って波にそれを崩してもらったり、とそんな遊びばかりをしていた。

性格的にかなり臆病なところがあるベビ子にはいきなりサーフィンに移行するのはかなり難しいはずだ。
なのでまずは『波遊び』からさせてみることにしてみた。
ショアブレイクを少々怖がるベビ子にボクは波との追いかけっこを見せてやった。
ビーチに打上った波が来たらそれに捕まらないようにギリギリのところを走る。
しかもそれをさも楽しそうにハイテンションで行うのだ。
子どもからみるとそれはさぞかし楽しそうな行為に見えるはずだ。

>> 次のページは >> 臆病ベビ子は波と遊べたのか!? 

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我が儚い夢

いつか一緒にサーフィンを

いつか一緒にサーフィンを


ボクにとって目下の夢は娘がサーファーになってくれることだ。
いつの日か、娘と波待ちをしつつ波が入ってきたら「ほれ、いいぞ、乗れ乗れ〜」などと父親風を吹かせたいのだ。
「オトー、いい波だったよ、ありがとね!」
となったとしたら、それはもうたいそう嬉しい状態に突入していく。
それがボクにとっての儚い夢なのだ。

しかし、その夢の実現には様々な困難が待ち構えていそうだ。
しょっぱなから高い壁がそびえ立っている。
それを乗り越えないことには先が見えてこない。
その壁とは我が娘が性格的に非常に臆病であるということだ。

>> 次のページ >> 親としてすべきことは?

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バリ島の魅力のおかげで


バリ島は季節の変わり目を迎えている。
先月までオンショア続きだった西海岸が徐々にオフショアに変りつつある。
徐々に雨も少なくなり始め、いよいよ乾季のポイントがシーズンインを迎える。
ウルワツからクタ、チャングー方面がこれから先の主役になってくるのだ。 続きを読む…

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ベビ子物語 vol20 言語


ベビ子は成長の過程が他の子と比べると全体的に早い。
寝返りをするのも、歩き始めるのも、しゃべり始めるのも、とにかく周囲に驚かれるほど早かった。
まあ、早いからってどうってことはないし、別に早さ競っているわけではないのではあるが、まあなんとなく早いほうがエライ感じがして親としては誇らしかったりするのだ。

そんなベビ子。
もう人生の半分以上をバリ島で過ごしている。
一丁前に学校にも通っている。
でも、その学校での主要言語は英語だ。
先生たちは基本的には英語で話をする。
島としての共通言語はインドネシア語とバリ語がある。
そこに我々の母国語である日本語があるのだ。

というわけでベビ子を取り巻く環境は物心を付く前から複数言語に取り囲まれているわけだ。
それが当たり前の環境で育っていくことになる。 続きを読む…

タグ: , ,

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